tashontheway

First day in the Pyrenees

I was very nervous leaving St Jean Pied de Port this morning. Over 1000 pilgrims leave St Jean each day bit most take the Camino Frances. I didn’t see any other pilgrims on my path today.

For the first few kilometres I followed the familiar red and white marks along the GR10, but after that the route split and the Voie Nive Bisassoa started. I’ve been following those red and white marks since I left Le Puy, I was sad to say goodbye. The GR10 would also take me to Irun but with exceptionally difficult climbs. Given the weight of my bag and traveling alone I decided to pass on that route. With one exception where I got a little lost the way marking held and I was able to navigate quite well.

I realised that I was exceptionally lucky to be taking this walk through the Pyrenees and that it was a privilege to do so on my own. I did meet some walkers after my lunch break who were going on another path and some people with horses not long after who were heading in the opposite direction.

I can see the hills and mountains all around and I regularly pass streams and rivers at the bottom of the valleys. Tte long days of corn seem like a long time ago.

My path diverging from the GR10 with new way markings

Heading north

After some research and chats with the volunteers in the local pilgrim office I’ve decided I’ll head to the Camino del Norte, the path along Spain’s northern coast. This means I will take the Voie Nive Bidassoa and spend the next 3-4 days skirting over and around the foothills of the Pyrenees to get to Irun, the official starting point of the del Norte. This path is not well documented or well traveled. I’ll have to take each day as it comes and accept that this part is likely to be tougher than the well traveled path through France. I did go and find the first Way Marking today so I know how to get out of town. It was nice to get that out of the way without my back pack.

I’m in pretty good shape. I have 10 toenails and 0 blisters I’ve worn through one pair of sox which I was able to replace here in Saint Jean. My boots are in good condition, my shorts are getting a little loose but they should see me through. I’m nervous about the new adventure tomorrow but also looking forward to moving forward to the next stage.

The new Way Marking I’ll follow tomorrow

Halfway

I haven’t really allowed myself to consider the enormity of the task I’ve set. I focus on the challenge of the day, how far to my next rest stop, when I’ll see the next town. The last few days I’ve struggled to believe that I’ll really be hitting halfway and 750km of walking.

But it hit me when I had 10kms remaining today. I had walked 740km. Wow. As each kilometre ticked by I was overwhelmed by joy. I feel happy and proud of how far I’ve traveled.

The walk today was lovely. Unfortunately the full view of the Pyrenees was hidden by cloud cover, but that gives the scenery a different mystique. It’s meant to be clear tomorrow so I’ll see the mountains then. I’m in Saint Jean Pied de Port, the official end of the via Podiensis and the start of the Camino Frances. I’ll rest tomorrow and decide if I’ll take the French way or if I’ll head north.

Steep ascents, stunning views

Today’s stage had some serious hills. It’s the first time that I’ve had to climb steep hills in a few weeks. I enjoyed the challenge and seeing the rewards. The views were stunning. Unfortunately the Pyrenees were a little hard to see as there was cloud cover for most of the day. But it was hot and sticky so I was grateful for the cloud even if it obscured some of the view.

Today’s stage was one of the 7 French stages that are World Heritage listed. The other stages that make the list are there because of the historic buildings. For this stage it’s the scenery alone.

I am in Herambeltz tonight. Tomorrow’s stage will be my final stage on the Way from Le Puy or the Via Podiensis. I’ll transition to a new route after that.

Arriving in Aroue

I had a restorative night in Navarrenx. I was hesitant to leave this morning. I would have liked to linger and have coffee but I couldn’t stay all day so I got on my way.

Lovely walking this morning, the air was cool and the Pyrenees are now a constant part of the scenery. There’s still corn, but the looking mountains are much nicer to focus on. They represent a big transition in my journey, once I cross them I’ll be in Spain and that feels like a new adventure.

I passed a little river this afternoon so I jumped in for a swim. Ive been hoping to find a nice swimming spot along the way and I’m happy to have found one before I leave France. The water was very cold, I would guess 12-14 degrees, much colder than Manly at the moment. a lovely way to cool off from the afternoon heat.

I’m now in Aroue where I’ll spend the night. I’ll sit and have a drink as I look out at those big mountains.

Looking out to the Pyrenees along the way

Short walk to Navarrenx

13km walk today through the hills and forests. It was over in 3 hours so I arrived in Navarrenx for lunch and was able to sit down and enjoy the meal knowing I had no where to move on to in the afternoon. It felt like a holiday.

I spent the afternoon having a little nap under a tree. I’ll have to start moving at pace again next week but this week it’s very nice to go slow.

I see the Pyrenees

And they are awe inspiring. Clear skies leaving Arthez de Bearn this morning allowed me to look out across the valley and over to the mountains. As I walked out of Athez I headed north, on my left to west I could see the Pyrenees and my walk for the next few days. On my right was what I’ve already covered. I have come along way.

Short day today, only 17km. And tomorrow will be shorter again. I walked quite slowly knowing there was no hurry and no where to be. It was a nice change of pace from the last 3 days. The scenery is changing again. There was still a little bit of corn but for the most part I was on tracks that took me up and down hills and through forests. it’s so much nicer than endless fields of corn. Onward.

Rolling hills with the Pyrenees in the background

Time for a rant

If you’re hoping to get an update on the cornfields and the sunflowers you might need to skip today’s post. The last few days have been long and tough and there hasn’t been much happening. Today I walked 30km through 4 little towns that didn’t have cafes or bars. There were a few picnic tables to stop at but not much else. The pilgrims are also a lot fewer in numbers today I counted 6 on the trail. But of there are other people in the Gîtes, but many are catching taxis or buses between the stops.

I have no idea why they do this. It’s possible to break the stages into smaller sections to make them shorter to ease the waking. But I’m not sure why you’d travel through this part of France, it’s not the part to see. My first two weeks, they were spectacular and worth seeing via transport. There are many reasons why people take the transport option, the heat, the rain, the distance. But really the only reason to be here as a visitor is if you’re walking. The motor transport seems to defeat the purpose. I obviously need to let go, let everyone walk their own way and focus on my own walk. Everyone will take the way as they choose to. And I’m making my own choice to walk.

I also had a few run ins with dogs today. There were quite a few agressive dogs barking behind fences, close to the track today. This happens often but particularly prevalent today. Karina and Annie left me with a dog spray that can be used to stop a dog from seeing and remove their smell for 30mins without hurting them. Today a dog that wasn’t behind a fence came running at me, barking and snapping and I didn’t even have time to get the spray out. I started running and the dog gave me a few head butts in the leg but luckily no bites. It then retreated quickly. I was ok but really frightened. I walked quite slowly and steadily after that.

Glad to have arrived in Arthez de Bearn tonight. There were some sunflowers and corn today. Rant is over now and I’ll get back to the scenery tomorrow.

Walking around a lake after leaving Arzaqu this morning

More corn and the return of yellow signs

I left Aire Sur L’Aour early this morning to get started on another long day. After I got outside the city outskirts I had a nice walk around a lake before going through an underpass beneath a large highway.

And then I was back in the corn. For most of the morning and the next 10kms, corn on either side. A very long morning. I stopped for lunch in Miramont-Sensacq and a much needed coffee. After that the way was much more interesting and varied. At Pimbo where I stopped for my afternoon break and a cold sugary drink there was a splendid view.

After leaving Pimbo I saw a yellow sign with distance information to the next towns, and also Santiago. This number clicked down below 1000km for the first time today. These signs were common at the start of my walk but for some reason they stopped a couple of weeks in. Strangely, seeing these again put a spring in my step. It felt like I was back on track.

Unfortunately I think there’ll be a lot more corn tomorrow, but at some stage soon I will get my first glimpse of the Pyrenees. When that happens will depend on the clarity of the sky. As the Pyrenees approaches, I’ll need to decide my path across mountains and through Spain. Things to contemplate over the coming days. I hope there’s more yellow signs.

Looking back to Pimbo after my afternoon break

Rain on the way

The day started with rain. And as the morning progressed it got heavier. Things were quite bleak actually. My boots that had got me through all those puddles started to let the rain in and my sox got really wet. I was trudging through 15km without any significant landmarks to distract me. The rain did clear late morning. And when I stopped for lunch I changed my saturated sox and things did get better.

But there wasn’t much along the way today to entertain me, not even a coffee or a bakery. At one stage I was walking for 4.5km with corn on either side of me and I couldn’t see above. For much of today I considered how I’m going to stay motivated for the rest of my walk. I’m yet to find the answer.

I’ve now been walking for 4 weeks. I’m feeling exceptionally strong and I can walk a 28km day as I did today and feel quite ok at the end of it. It’s a great to feel this fit and strong. Still a very long way to go…

The rain hitting a little pond I walked past

Time to be still

I am resting today in Nogaro. As Mum mentioned in her comment, Nogaro will play host to the start of Stage 4 of the Tour de France next week. You can imagine the excitement in the town. There are signs everywhere and the town has strung little flags in the shapes and colours of the leader jerseys through the Main Street. I can’t imagine how these little towns host so many people.

I have had a lovely day, visiting the market, eating yummy peaches and apricots, reading and planning my next weeks journey. Looking forward to being back in my way tomorrow. It has been nice to be still.