Tash on The Way

Into Galicia

A big climb today. Up to the heights of the base of all those windmills I’ve been seeing. Again the views were lovely. And most of the way was on dirt or grass paths so my feet are doing really well. I thought the morning light was a little flat, but looking back my photos are quite nice once again. I hope you like them. T

he pilgrim community here is strong and we all converge in the bars for our coffee stops. We needed lots of coffee as the last 2km was especially tough. A big climb into Fonsagrada where I sleep tonight that tested even my strong legs.

Today I entered Galicia, the final region of my walk. Here, the scallop shells that indicate the way are on cement blocks that also include the distance to Santiago so I now see that number dropping almost every kilometre. It’s really not far now.

Lakes and dragons

The morning light today was fabulous yet again. leaving town I had a short walk through country roads. As I walked I could see windmills poking their tops through the clouds. As the clouds dissolved more of the windmills became visible. After I took second breakfast in La Mesa the clouds were gone and the windmills were fully visible.

From La Mesa I had a big climb, from the top I could see down to the river Navia. Then it was time to descend all the way down to the river, 1228 metres down. The views were stunning.

Once I arrived in Grande de Salime some other Pilgrims told me that the town is celebrating their festival. We went into the centre and enjoyed the local cuisine, music and a dragon. It was a wonderful ending to the day.

Los Hospitales

Today’s stage is said to be the most beautiful of all the Caminos of Santiago. Sadly I’ll never know because almost all I saw was thick fog. It rolled in last night while we were having dinner so the golf tournament didn’t go ahead. And it stayed until late morning. It’s also said to be one of the most demanding days of any Camino and includes the highest point of the Camino Primitivo. Luckily my legs are strong now and I managed the terrain well.

The track was well marked and the yellow arrows that we follow are very easy to see in the fog. The route wove around the ancient hospitals set up to house pilgrims on the original Primitivo. We could still see the ruins that dated back to the 13th century.

The sun did come out after my lunch break, and I had a lovely walk through the forests to arrive in Berducedo where I rest tonight.

The view from the highest point of Camino Primitivo

Looking back

Way back in the early days of my walk my fellow pilgrim Donald commented that ‘we always start in a hole’. Today reminded me of that comment and those early days. I started in a Valley and as I left town I had to climb up and out. The views to the hill and the light were beautiful and rivalled those early days out of Le Puy.

There were many pilgrims as I climbed that hill. We all pass each other in the early stages of our walk. And then somehow we all spread out and I went for 5km without seeing anyone. But then I arrived at the first opportunity for coffee of the day and somehow we are all there at the same time.

After my coffee break it started to get very hot. There was another bar in only 2kms and many pilgrims had decided to stop again as they were struggling with the heat. I kept going and I was back in the forest for much of the afternoon. We climbed high again but the views remained wonderful.

I am staying tonight in the tiny village of Colinas de Arriba at a very nice Albergue. There’s a mini golf course and there’s talk of a Spain vs Rest of World tournament. I’ll to see if that happens. Meanwhile I’ll sit back and listen to the Spanish pilgrims play guitar and sing in Spanish.

Forest walks

I left just after 7 this morning and I was out of town and into the forest very quickly. The light under the canopy was very low, I was glad I didn’t leave earlier. It was nice to be on a dirt track. I started next to the river and before I new it I was 300m up above the valley floor. The climb was very gradual. Then a steep incline for about 150m and I was out of the forest and sadly into the highway. There was a long line of pilgrims in front of me.

Luckily the highway didn’t last long and then it was onto quiet country roads which passed through small hamlets. There was only one opportunity for coffee this morning and I was surprised when I arrived, the morning walk was much quicker than I expected.

After second breakfast it was back into the forest. It was so lovely I wanted to stay away from town for a bit longer so I sat down and had a picnic before finishing the day. Now I’m in Tineo, a lovely place to stay the night.

Hills and Valleys

Early start today. The temperature was forecast to pass 30 for the first time since the day I arrived in Spain. I’m not sure if it actually got there though, but 29 on the road is still very hot.

I was on the road before 7 and many other pilgrims did the same thing so there was a steady stream of us leaving town and people to chat to as we climbed the big hill. We went up for a long time providing lovely views of the valley. Eventually we headed down into that valley and past rivers and streams.

After my second breakfast I was into the forest and onto the dirt roads. It did start to heat up after that. The heat is so draining. I was very happy to arrive in Salas where I’ll spend the night.

300km

Yep, not long now. I remember when I had walked the first 150km and I thought I’d gone a really long way. Now, 300km seems like a small distance and I’ll be done in no time.

Leaving Oviedo this morning there were heaps of people on their way to work, strange to be in a city with people carrying out normal lives. When I got walking it was actually quite cold and there was fog in the distance. As I got out of the city and into the hills the views were obstructed by the fog, but the fog had it’s own beauty. The fog would eventually lift around 10 and deliver a sunny day.

Much of my walk today was through the forest and there were some hills. But when I descended to the valley floor I could hear the river even if I couldn’t always see it through the thick trees.

The Primitivo is brimming with new pilgrims, they are exited and strapping new clean shoes, I bet their soles are nice and spongy. I think my dusty old boots stand out.

New Feet

Well not exactly new feet but I did go to the Farmacia and buy new insoles for my boots. They have made a huge difference! For the first 10km of my day I felt like I was walking in pillows. The new insoles did firm up a bit after that and I only walked 17km today. But overall a huge improvement and at the end of the day my feet feel just fine. I’ll need to watch out for blisters but hopefully I can manage that.

I am now in Oviedo which marks the official start of the Primitivo. When I arrived at my albergue I was 10th in line for a bed everyone else was just starting their Camino here. I was a bit surprised, but for people with a 2 week holiday this route offers the opportunity to walk a complete Camino to Santiago.

My walk today was through country roads and along rivers. It was peaceful and I could feel a definite change from the Del Norte. It’s exciting to be walking a new path.

Fork in the road

Today I took the turn from the Camino del Norte onto the path that will lead me to the Camino Primitivo. The Primitivo’s official start is in Oviedo, until I get there tomorrow night I’m just transitioning between the two routes.

The turning point takes me inland and further away from the coast. Im again climbing hills and walking through forests. So much more satisfying than walking along the highways. I think I took a turn for the better.

Rest day

It was great to have a rest today. My feet are feeling so much better! I have spent the day resting and eating and a short jaunt around lovely Villaviciosa. When I went out for breakfast I ran into Laura who had stopped at an earlier town was already 2 hours into her way for the day.

Laura and I met in Irun and walked our first day in Spain together. She then stayed in on San Sebastián when I continued. Amazingly we met again on the way out of Bilbao and yet again in Poo. These are my favourite moments of the Camino, unexpectedly running into friends who I didn’t think I’d see again. Laura will be sticking with Del Norte while I turn onto Primitivo, so it’s likely we won’t see each other again.

Villaviciosa is the apple capital of Spain and the town is full of Cider bars. I did try some, unfortunately it wasn’t my favourite drink I’ve had in Spain. But it was fun to see. The bar tenders poor the cider from up above their heads into the glass. No idea why but it’s entertaining if nothing else. It’s clearly a big thing because there’s a statue in the town of a guy pouring cider.

I’ll be back on my way tomorrow.

60 days on the trail

Heavy rain over night and this morning, but it eased off before I left and there was barely a drizzle once I got on my way. La Isla where I spent last night was a small town without a grocery store so I stopped in Columba after about 3km to grab supplies and have 2nd breakfast.

From there is was uphill and scattered houses but no more towns until the end of the day. I skirted between forests and the highway with the occasional look back to say goodbye to the coast. I’m really appreciating the time away from the roads. It’s so peaceful and I don’t have to concentrate as much.

Tonight I’m in Villavicencio, there’s a brass band playing in the town square so all the locals are out. I left the concert so I could have an ‘early’ dinner at 8pm. I’m going to take a rest day tomorrow. I’ll stay off the feet and try to get back to full strength.

Possibly my last glimpse of the Spanish coast.