Tash on The Way

Going off track

I lost my way today. Coming out of Saint-Alban I missed the markings and kept going down a highway. The way markings disappeared and I knew something was wrong. Whenever I’ve been uncertain about the path I’ve looked at my watch and said ‘if you don’t see a marker in 5 mins go back’. The markings have always come up… but not this time. Once I realised I was off track, I pulled out my guide book and realised I’d missed a turn onto a dirt track. The detour added a kilometre to my day. Luckily today was short.

Once I was back on track the walk was peaceful. It was nice to take my time knowing that I didn’t have to rush and my destination was close by Camino standards.

About 10km along I was passed by a group of six pilgrims. They were probably in their 20s and they were moving so fast it felt like they ran past me. Not long after we came to an incredibly steep descent comprised of large boulders. It was super tricky terrain especially with the weight of a pack. A few of the 20 somethings really struggled and a couple of them slid down on their bums. I actually found the terrain really fun. With my poles I felt like a skier elegantly popping down moguls. I think the 20 somethings were impressed!

Not long after I passed the 20 somethings I started to feel a bit sad and lonely. A few tears escaped and I wondered what on earth I was doing out here on my own. But once the few tears were out that was over and I felt better. And happy to be able to set my own path and my own pace.

I continued to swap the lead with the 20 somethings throughout the day. We exchanged greetings and encouragement each time. I hope they enjoy their holiday together.

Tonight I rest in Aumont – Aubrac. The prettiest town I’ve been in so far.

Looking back to Saint Albon once I was back on track

Long day to Saint-Alban

Last night I was unable to secure accommodation at the recommended end for the 3rd stage. So I had to walk an extra 12km to get a bed. Long day.

Luckily the walk wasn’t nearly as strenuous as yesterday, but my body was really tired. It started to hurt. My backpack felt heavy. I adjusted it a hundred times. Somehow after my first rest stop and eating a delicious Pain au Raisin that I picked up before leaving Sauges I felt a lot better. My backpack was in a good spot and it felt better. I found my stride and I picked up my pace. The landscape also starting to change from big mountains to rolling green expanses. The scenery is a great distraction.

I made it to today’s recommended overnight stop just after lunch. Strangely I was glad to keep walking. Although the rain clouds did roll in. I could hear the thunder and at times even the rain. But somehow I managed to skirt just around the storm and I didn’t even get a drop.

The last kilometre coming into Saint-Alban was possibly the slowest kilometre I’ve ever walked. But I made it and my post walk beer and dinner were delicious.

The bad news… I have my first blisters on my little toes. The good news, because I walked an extra 12km today, tomorrow’s stage is only 16. I can sleep in.

First Big Stage

Today I arrived in Saugues. I walked 27km, I ascended a total of 805m but I descended 950m. Today was tough but I’m super happy to have gotten through. I am so glad I have my walking poles. Big thank you to Jenny for helping me see the light and ensuring I had these.

While the walking was tough today it was unbelievably rewarding, everywhere I looked there was a picture waiting for a camera. Most of my fellow Pilgrims who I met last night were stopping in Monistrol-d’Allier tonight, I walked another 12km. I worried for most of the day that I’d made a choice that would prove to be a bad one. But, while challenging, the walk was manageable. I did stop in Monistrol-d’Allier for a delicious lunch of salad and coffee. It was a pretty town.

Tonight I am tired again, enjoying a beer (Lucas told me I need carbs!) and dinner and looking forward to a good rest and tomorrow’s challenge.

Looking back to Monistrol-d’Allier after I climbed out of the Valley

I made it…

… through my first day at least. Once I started walking my nerves settled a lot. The scenery is spectacular. Green hills, purple and yellow wild flowers by the side of the road. It’s hard to know which way to look.

I started the day by attending the Pilgrim blessing at the Cathedral in Le Puy. They have a full mass daily, today’s was attended by around 150 people. After the mass there was a blessing for the Pilgrims. We had entered through a side door. At the end of the blessing the Priest gave the instruction for the portal to open. On demand, part of the floor was raised mechanically to reveal the main door to the Cathedral and the first steps of the Camino. We were wished a Bon Chemin and it was time to start.

My biggest fear embarking on this journey was that I would lose my way and get hopelessly lost in countryside France. I’m a lot less scared now. The Way Marking is exceptional. There are signs at most turns, shells marking much of the path and also red and white flags at regular intervals. There are even red and white X’s to show the incorrect path. It’s fantastic!

Many of the towns and villages we pass through don’t even have bakeries or cafes, but they usually have water fountains and toilets for pilgrims. Today I passed through one such town, Liac, where a lady had set up a kiosk selling sandwich’s, drinks and of course coffee to passing pilgrims. She also had a map of the world and she asked me to put in a pin for my home in Australia. There were only 2 pins for Australia. They were in Sydney and Perth, as my birthplace and my most recent home were taken I stuck one in Canberra. I hope my Canberran friends are reading. I enjoyed a small coffee and kept walking.

I am resting tonight in Montbonnet after a manageable first stage to my journey. I am tired but happy and content. Enjoying a local beer in the sunshine. Not a bad first day.

What am I doing here in Le Puy?

Before I left Australia on my Camino adventure I got asked the same two questions: ‘Why do you want to walk the Camino?’, and ‘Why are you staring in Le Puy?’

The answer to both questions is the same. A few years back, I read a novel in which two people walked seperate journeys along the Camino. After I read that book, I was pretty sure that the Camino was in my future. In the novel, the characters started walking from Cluny which is about 200km from Le Puy, the starting point I’ve chosen. I would have liked to walk from Cluny, but it’s hard to get to and the path isn’t well documented. Through my research I found that Le Puy is a popular starting point for Camino Pilgrims, the transport to get here is easy and there’s a pilgrim office to get you started. So the main reason for my starting point here in Le Puy is simplicity.

I left Australia 2 weeks ago and I’ve spent that time with my dear friends in Japan and London. I’m sad to have said goodbye to them and I’m sorry to be heading out on my own now. I miss all of them as well as my friends back home. I’m also feeling terrified and wondering why on earth I thought it was a good idea to leave my great job and my lovely home to try to walk across 2 countries. But I’m also excited to see what the next few months has in store.

If I’m successful in completing my Camino I’ll walk around 1500km to Santiago de Compostela. Sitting here in Le Puy that distance is unimaginable. But I’m aware that all I have to do is get up tomorrow and walk the first part of my journey. I would like to walk to Santiago, but I’m aware that not all journeys work out and I’m ok with changing my mind if mine doesn’t.

When Pilgrims meet along The Way they take a moment to wish each other well with a ‘Bon Chemin’ in France or a ‘Bon Camino’ in Spain. If you’re reading along with me please take a moment to send me your best wishes. Let’s see how I go.