camino del Norte – Tash on The Way

The end of the world and of the blog

I left before the sun was up again this morning and I was straight into the forest. There was a time when I would have been too scared to walk into the dark, not anymore. After a couple of kilometres I was out and onto the road and it started raining. Somehow it felt right that there was some rain on my last day of walking. Luckily I wasn’t on the road for long. I was back on the dirt tracks and very quickly I had my first views to the ocean. But there was still a long way to go.

I had to walk for 13km before I would reach the coast and another 15km to the town of Finistère. As I got closer to the ocean the sky started to clear, the sun came out. Those last 15km were some of the hardest I’ve done. The terrain was easy but I was tired and I felt every step. I was slow.

When I arrived at Finistère I was able to leave my backpack before starting the final hike to the End of the World. Heading up that last hill was joyous. No tears this time. I was happy to be walking along the cliffs and getting so close to the end. The final kilometres were slow, but then, finally, I arrived at that 0km sign.

I have walked across an entire country, traversed the Pyrenees and a good part of France. I cannot believe that I have walked so far and seen and experienced so much. I am proud of what I’ve done and extremely grateful to have had the freedom to go on an adventure.

I am lucky to have crossed paths with the wonderful people who made my adventure so special. I have met many people and made many friends. But Karina, Annie, Donald, Andreas, Antonio, Wouter and Katia shared their strength with me and made sure I’d keep going when I had nothing left. There were turns and trials along the way that led me to each of them. I would not change a single thing.

And now it’s done and so am I. I’ve put down my backpack and unlaced my boots for the final time. It’s time to stop following those yellow arrows, I’ll have to work out where I’m going without them.

The highs and lows of Santiago and continuing to the coast

Yesterday was a day of emotion. Before setting out for the final stage those of us who had walked the Primitivo met for coffee. The group would form and reform throughout the day but we rejoined for second breakfast after 5km, again at the top of the hill in Monte de Gozo where we got out first views of Santiago and of course in front of the cathedral where we finally set down our backpacks. It was a moment of pure joy and celebration.

I was so lucky to share the final kilometres of my journey with such a wonderful group of people. Katia, Antonio and Wouter have carried me through the last few days, it has been so much easier having them walk alongside me. I am lucky and grateful to have taken the turns in the road that led me to them. I wouldn’t change anything. There are so many others who walked with me through my long journey, too many to name here. They all know who they are and how special walking with them has been. I have also received many messages of congratulations from home, I’m still in the process of replying to many of these but I have read them all.

I have rested today, and after much consideration I have decided I will continue my walk tomorrow. There is 90km to the western coast, a place called Finistère which they call the end of the world. At this point another 90km doesn’t seem that far. It’s going to be hot this week so I’ll take it slowly and aim to cover the distance in 4 days. I’ll continue my blog while I continue my walk.

Finally an anticlimax today. I went to the pilgrim office to receive my Compostela the certificate all pilgrims who walk the minimum 100km receive for completing the Camino Santiago. There is also an option to request an additional certificate which states your starting location, the route you took and the distance walked. Unfortunately as I walked a path less traveled the pilgrim office was not prepared to recognise the full distance I walked and instead would only recognise the distance of the Camino Frances, about 100km less than I traveled. While the number is not important at this point, and of course neither is the paper it was still a little heartbreaking that the distance wouldn’t be recognised. I decided to leave the additional certificate. I know how far I’ve walked and the paths I’ve taken.

All Roads to Santiago

Today my morning walk switched between the forest and country roads again. After second breakfast the way was a gentle up hill slope and then once again I was amongst the windmills. I was heading for a lunch stop in the town of Melide. Unfortunately the last 5km was on a busy road. It requires a lot of focus and attention to the cars to ensure we stay out of their way.

Once in Melide the way merged with the Camino Frances, the path I chose not to take when I left Saint Jean Pied de Port and instead traversed the Pyrenees. Tomorrow the Camino del Norte will also join us along with all the Pilgrims I left behind when I turned onto the Primitivo. We then all make our way to Santiago together on one final stage. Almost there.

Fork in the road

Today I took the turn from the Camino del Norte onto the path that will lead me to the Camino Primitivo. The Primitivo’s official start is in Oviedo, until I get there tomorrow night I’m just transitioning between the two routes.

The turning point takes me inland and further away from the coast. Im again climbing hills and walking through forests. So much more satisfying than walking along the highways. I think I took a turn for the better.

60 days on the trail

Heavy rain over night and this morning, but it eased off before I left and there was barely a drizzle once I got on my way. La Isla where I spent last night was a small town without a grocery store so I stopped in Columba after about 3km to grab supplies and have 2nd breakfast.

From there is was uphill and scattered houses but no more towns until the end of the day. I skirted between forests and the highway with the occasional look back to say goodbye to the coast. I’m really appreciating the time away from the roads. It’s so peaceful and I don’t have to concentrate as much.

Tonight I’m in Villavicencio, there’s a brass band playing in the town square so all the locals are out. I left the concert so I could have an ‘early’ dinner at 8pm. I’m going to take a rest day tomorrow. I’ll stay off the feet and try to get back to full strength.

Possibly my last glimpse of the Spanish coast.

Final coast walk

After tomorrow I plan to leave the Del Norte and make my approach to Santiago via the Camino Primitivo, so today was my last day walking along the coast.

Despite lots of clouds this morning the rain held off until I sat down to my second breakfast in Ribadesella. But luckily it only rained for the 10 minutes while I was sitting down and it cleared after that. I walked on and I stopped for my lunch break just outside of La Vega. And that’s when the second storm hit. I quickly packed up and donned my poncho before the rain started. With the wind it pelted down and it continued to rain on and off for the remainder of the afternoon. Luckily my tracks today were justly dirt so much softer on the feet. But not a great final day for the beach. At least I’m warm and inside now. Feet are feeling much better.

First glimpse of La Isla where I sleep tonight.

Bridge crossings

Long day on the road today. It started with some lovely views of the beach and then I started to move inland to rolling hills. It was pretty but oh my feet hurt straight away. It’s just too much on the road.

As I approached San Vincent early afternoon the road got really busy and there was virtually no shoulder to walk on. It was again very scary every time a car went passed. I could see the busy bridge that would take me into the town and I decided that I was done with taking on the cars, if there was no pedestrian path along that bridge I was going to sit down and quit. No more walking, I’d find a bus and plane back to London.

As I got closer I could many pedestrians jauntily walking across the bridge. Today would not be the day that I would quit the Camino. I rest tonight in Unquera after 37km.

The view from the bridge I almost didn’t cross

New friends

My first kilometre this morning was on a dirt path that was overgrown with moss, a soft squishy delight for my tired feet. After that I wove through sleepy towns for a few kilometres. Then I was onto a asphalt pathway beside a highway.

I soon came across another pilgrim, I could see his feet were also tired because like me he was trying to walk in the white line separating us from the highway. The line provided enough sponginess to make the effort of trying to walk on the line worthwhile. I eventually passed him when stopped to adjust his backpack and he passed me when I stopped to grab some snacks.

In Santillana I stopped for second breakfast and the sand pilgrim was there. He said hello and asked me to join him and said he recognised me from the way. I thought he meant when we passed today. But actually he had recognised me from places in France. He had also started in Le Puy and it turns out we started walking on the same day. He also navigated the Voie Nive Bidassoa, and like me he didn’t see another pilgrim the whole walk. We said goodbye after our coffee, I kept going and he went to the tourist office to find a stamp. I wonder if I’ll see him again.

Not long after I ran into Edward and his dog Bindy who I met in Guemes, we walked together for a few kilometres before he went to explore one of the beaches. Then Laslo joined me for a bit. He’s been walking with a friend and I’d seen them a few times on the trail. Unfortunately his friend hurt his knee and had left the way. We walked together all the way to Playa du Luana where I stay tonight. He kept walking. My feet don’t hurt nearly as much today.

Fast Forward

Again today many of my fellow pilgrims decided to press the fast forward button and took transport through the stage. The way was off the coast and through urban areas and was deemed to be boring. You’ll see from the photos it was not the most beautiful day of my walk. But it also wasn’t terrible. The rain clouds kept the sky interesting.

There were also some nice surprises along the way. I found some lovely coffee stops with warm hosts and welcoming locals to chat to. One of the towns also had a mural of the Camino del Norte painted by the street.

I was pleased to still see some pilgrims on the road. I counted 8 including one who had only started his Camino today. My feet are hurting a lot at the moment. I think my jours have lost all the sponginess from the base and walking on the road is really tough. A few days ago I was thinking I had finally gotten used to it but apparently not. I am hoping for more dirt tracks soon.

Cliffs and corn

I felt well rested this morning and I was looking forward to a shorter walk along the coast. The light was lovely when I took off. Unfortunately the day started walking along a fairly big road with a very thin shoulder. Luckily as I walked early there wasn’t much traffic. It also didn’t last for long, only 4km to Galizano where I took my second breakfast. I arrived slightly before 9am and before the bar had actually opened. The local men where also arriving waiting for coffee to go with their catch up.

From there I was headed for the coast again. a short stroll to the cliffs and then I was walking high around the surf beach. Eventually I would come to a place where I was walking right between my old friend a field of corn and tte ocean cliff. This was far more spectacular than the days of corn I passed in France.

Once I was around the cliffs I was down and onto the sand for about 5km. That was a hot walk but it ended with what I believe to be the final boat ride of my Camino. A large passenger ferry that took me from Somo to Santander where I finished walking today. As I finished early I treated myself to Paella for lunch and an afternoon nap.

Corn fields next to the cliffs and across to Santander

Boat Ride 2

Today started so nicely. A 5km stroll along Laredo beach followed by a ferry trip across to Santona where I took second breakfast. Then I was beach hopping for the next 10kms. It was lovely and the views were some of the best I’ve seen.

Then I got really tired. Maybe I hadn’t had enough food, maybe I’m still recovering from the cold, but after that the walking was hard. I had a long 15km remaining until I got to the end of my day. It was slow going. Luckily I ran into some other pilgrims who were resting on a bridge and in a similar state of tiredness. We all walked the last 7kms together. I’m happy to be in Guemes tonight. Hoping for a good rest and more energy tomorrow.