camino del Norte – Page 2 – Tash on The Way

Day 51

I missed a big milestone yesterday passing 50 days on the way. To keep me guessing there was a bit of fun with the distance markings today. After I’d been walking for a few kilometres there was a distance marker to Laredo where i would stop tonight. 22kms. Ok.

I walked a few more kms, there was another marker to Laredo…25kms. What??? I was not happy. I kept walking, I’m not sure how far. Then I started up a hill. Not a particularly big hill, not even particularly steep. But i was annoyed and the hill made everything worse. I decided that it was very unreasonable to have this hill right here. Obviously this made me feel even worse and made the climb even harder. About half way up there was another distance marker – 17km. At that point I’d stop keeping track and was unsure how far I’d walked since the last marker, but it wasn’t more than a few kms.

Eventually I started heading down hill, and I looked up and around and realised that everything around me was completely different from the scenery I’d seen so far in Spain. I also realised that I hadn’t seen a way marker for some time. And this time I started to get worried. Was I on the wrong track? But not long after I saw a familiar yellow arrow, and suddenly there were other pilgrims in front and coming behind me.

I was also about to arrive in Liendo where I had my coffee break. There were more hills after Liendo but these were much more agreeable, and they delivered magical coastal views that continued for the remainder of my walk. When I finally arrived in Laredo my Garmin had clocked 20km.

Rugged Coast

I’ve come down with a bit of a cold. So I opted for a short trip today so that I could keep moving but still have the afternoon to rest.

My walk was back along the coastline with some stunning but rugged views of rocky cliffs and a few goats.

The rain rolled in halfway through my walk. It really pelted down but just for a few minutes. It storm added to the beauty of the hard coastline. I’m resting in Islares tonight. A time beachside town.

Rest Day

Another day in the pretty town of Castro-Urdiales. I ran into a few other pilgrims who also took the opportunity for a rest today. I’ll get back on my way tomorrow.

Along the coast

Todays walk started with 50 steps up out of town. And then I was into the morning light and moving along the cliffs with views of the beaches and cliffs. This continued for 3-4km before I transitioned into the highway. Walking along the highway is my least favourite part of the Camino. Luckily for the most part there was a decent shoulder and the Spanish drivers slowed down when they approached.

I had my second breakfast in the small town of Miono. From there the way followed a pedestrian tunnel that led to Castro-Urdiales where I’m staying tonight. I’ll be taking a well deserved rest day tomorrow. My first since I’ve been in Spain.

Canals and Cable Cars

The Way out of Bilbao is thought to be one of the most uninteresting stages of the Camino del Norte. For this reason many of my fellow pilgrims chose to take the train through this stage and I was even encouraged to do the same. I was reminded of a movie where the main character who’s bored by the demands of his life is offered a magic remote control that allows him to fast forward the bits he doesn’t like. In time the consequences of the fast forwarding are revealed to be dire. The moral of the story, the boring bits are those where you learn and grow and you’ll look back on them fondly.

While I doubt there’d have been dire consequences if I had chosen to fast forward, I’m happy I continued with the walk. Out of Bilbao I walked along a canal through an industrial area. I went past the bus depot and the garbage truck depot, furniture stores and petrol stages. The parts of life that are often kept out of sight. But I also found a great coffee. And when Bilbao was behind me there were rowers on the canal and the lead up to Portugalete was spectacular.

I then got to enjoy the best bit of the day. a cable car that’s used to ferry passengers, cars and pilgrims across the river! It was quite a ride. There was then another surprise, a Hong Kong style escalator through the town to take you up the hill. The hill wasn’t that steep and the escalator was rather slow, but after walking for so long I was rather happy with the ride.

For much of the rest of the day I walked along purpose built pedestrian/cycle paths that went over large highways. Not spectacular, but there were more Buen Caminos from the cyclists than I’ve had over my entire time in Spain. Eventually I arrived back at the coast and my final kilometre was on a boardwalk along the beach. I’m now resting in Pobena, next to the beach and rather pleased to have completed todays stage.

Destination Bilbao

The shortest walk of my Camino today, only 9km. There was nothing special about the walk itself, it was all about the destination. My first few kilometres were on a footpath but next to a busy road so it was quite noisy. It was also under one of the flight paths to Bilbao which added to the noise.

Eventually I did turn off and climbed a hill, through a forest. There was more rain today so the views were a little spoilt. But I did get a view of Bilbao as I entered and it is a lovely city. I stopped past the church and for my second breakfast in the town square. This afternoon I will go and see the Guggenheim and enjoy some local cuisine. I do like these shorter days.

Forests and Streams

I left early today. I didn’t have a room booked so I wanted to make an early start to ensure I’d get a room at one of the places that don’t take reservations. The rain started early too, but again I won’t complain.

My walk started with a quick uphill but then it wasn’t long before I was descending down again to a river. The track felt like it could be in Australia, it was lined with eucalyptus and there were many fallen leaves. The rain did make things quite slippery so I had to be careful as I walked.

Tonight I am wondering where are all the pilgrims. There were over 50 people my first night in Spain, but tonight we’ve thinned to only 10. I guess others have taken different paces,some quicker and some slower. Maybe the rain has put a few off too. Tonight I’m in the small town of Lezama. I’ll hit Bilbao tomorrow.

Into the forest

When I started walking today a light mist was already falling and I actually felt cold. I feel lucky to be escaping the heat of the south so I won’t complain about the rain or the cooler weather.

My walk today was along the river and then through the rain forest. The views and my photos aren’t as spectacular as the previous days, but the walking was very peaceful.

I paused at a monastery for my morning coffee. There was a group of pilgrims there staying out if the rain. We all had a shorter day so none of us were in a hurry to move on. But of course eventually we had to. I’m in Monday’s tonight.

Adios Coast

Today I said goodbye to the coast for a few days. I’ve been enjoying the first views but I also love how the scenery continues to change on the Camino.

The uphill started as soon as I left town this morning. Some test today was the toughest of the Camino del Norte, I guess I’ll get to see. The climb was long and strenuous but I was constantly looking back at the views out to the coast. They continued to be spectacular. Despite the steep and strenuous climb it was lovely walking, everyone I spoke to shared my feeling that it was one of the nicest walks we’ve done so far.

A few people have asked me about the temperature and if I’m experiencing any of the heatwave that is engulfing so much of Spain. Luckily the high today was 28 degrees and the forecast for the rest of the week is for mid to low 20s. Apparently those further south walking the Camino Frances are experiencing the extreme weather. I am very happy that I sorted this route.

tonight I rest in Markina, a small Basque village. After dinner tonight I was walking back and a lady chased me asking if I was Australian. She was from Townsville. I always love the close affinity experienced with other Australians in Europe. I guess we all feel a long way from home.

Morning stroll

I left Zarautz via a long coastal walk. Once again I was walking alongside the locals out for their morning exercise. After passing through Getaria it was time to head uphill again before I went back down to Zumaia where I stopped for coffee at 10am. I sat amongst the locals, many of whom were already drinking their first glass of wine.

When I left one of the locals talked to me and gestured about the hills. Yes, I’ve climbed lots of hills I thought. I think what he meant though was you are about to climb up out of our town. And yes, it was quite a climb. But that was nothing compared to the steep descent heading into Deba this afternoon. It was steep and slippery and it went for about 3km. I was very happy to be finished walking for the day.

Walking along the cliffs

Leaving San Sebastián today it felt a lot like an early morning in manly. The swimmers surfers and runners were all up, there was even some yoga on the beach. I had a quick sharp climb after leaving the beach and then i was up above the cliffs. It levelled out and I stayed up high with sweeping views of the coast for about 10km before a steep descent.

After the descent there was a little stop for pilgrims. A lady and her family put out tea and coffee and cake (it was delicious) so pilgrims can have a rest. It was exceptionally kind. I then came to Orio, a little fishing port that had their food and wine fair. It felt like everyone in the town was out celebrating.

Tonight I’ve stopped in Zaurautz, another pretty beach town. I’m enjoying the Spanish tapas as a replacement to the rich French dinners. The wine has been good too.