Camino Primitivo – Tash on The Way

The end of the world and of the blog

I left before the sun was up again this morning and I was straight into the forest. There was a time when I would have been too scared to walk into the dark, not anymore. After a couple of kilometres I was out and onto the road and it started raining. Somehow it felt right that there was some rain on my last day of walking. Luckily I wasn’t on the road for long. I was back on the dirt tracks and very quickly I had my first views to the ocean. But there was still a long way to go.

I had to walk for 13km before I would reach the coast and another 15km to the town of Finistère. As I got closer to the ocean the sky started to clear, the sun came out. Those last 15km were some of the hardest I’ve done. The terrain was easy but I was tired and I felt every step. I was slow.

When I arrived at Finistère I was able to leave my backpack before starting the final hike to the End of the World. Heading up that last hill was joyous. No tears this time. I was happy to be walking along the cliffs and getting so close to the end. The final kilometres were slow, but then, finally, I arrived at that 0km sign.

I have walked across an entire country, traversed the Pyrenees and a good part of France. I cannot believe that I have walked so far and seen and experienced so much. I am proud of what I’ve done and extremely grateful to have had the freedom to go on an adventure.

I am lucky to have crossed paths with the wonderful people who made my adventure so special. I have met many people and made many friends. But Karina, Annie, Donald, Andreas, Antonio, Wouter and Katia shared their strength with me and made sure I’d keep going when I had nothing left. There were turns and trials along the way that led me to each of them. I would not change a single thing.

And now it’s done and so am I. I’ve put down my backpack and unlaced my boots for the final time. It’s time to stop following those yellow arrows, I’ll have to work out where I’m going without them.

The highs and lows of Santiago and continuing to the coast

Yesterday was a day of emotion. Before setting out for the final stage those of us who had walked the Primitivo met for coffee. The group would form and reform throughout the day but we rejoined for second breakfast after 5km, again at the top of the hill in Monte de Gozo where we got out first views of Santiago and of course in front of the cathedral where we finally set down our backpacks. It was a moment of pure joy and celebration.

I was so lucky to share the final kilometres of my journey with such a wonderful group of people. Katia, Antonio and Wouter have carried me through the last few days, it has been so much easier having them walk alongside me. I am lucky and grateful to have taken the turns in the road that led me to them. I wouldn’t change anything. There are so many others who walked with me through my long journey, too many to name here. They all know who they are and how special walking with them has been. I have also received many messages of congratulations from home, I’m still in the process of replying to many of these but I have read them all.

I have rested today, and after much consideration I have decided I will continue my walk tomorrow. There is 90km to the western coast, a place called Finistère which they call the end of the world. At this point another 90km doesn’t seem that far. It’s going to be hot this week so I’ll take it slowly and aim to cover the distance in 4 days. I’ll continue my blog while I continue my walk.

Finally an anticlimax today. I went to the pilgrim office to receive my Compostela the certificate all pilgrims who walk the minimum 100km receive for completing the Camino Santiago. There is also an option to request an additional certificate which states your starting location, the route you took and the distance walked. Unfortunately as I walked a path less traveled the pilgrim office was not prepared to recognise the full distance I walked and instead would only recognise the distance of the Camino Frances, about 100km less than I traveled. While the number is not important at this point, and of course neither is the paper it was still a little heartbreaking that the distance wouldn’t be recognised. I decided to leave the additional certificate. I know how far I’ve walked and the paths I’ve taken.

I made it

Here I am. I will write a proper update tomorrow. For now it’s time to celebrate.

Thank you for all the messages of encouragement and congratulations for my final day and across my entire journey. I have read them all.

Tomorrow

It’s hard to believe after so long on the way, tomorrow I’ll arrive in Santiago. When I arrive I’ll have walked over 1600km. That’s the equivalent of walking from Melbourne to Byron Bay or Perth to Karratha. For reference for my international friends, google says Seoul to Tokyo is 1147km and Montreal to Chicago is 1352km. I’ve gone a long way.

We had rain on the way today, it was peaceful and quiet and many of my pilgrim friends chose to have some time alone to think about the journey so far, myself included. I actually didn’t take many photos today so the photo credits for today go to my friend Wouter. Thanks for sharing.

Way back when I arrived in Saint Jean Pied de Port my unofficial halfway point, another pilgrim said to me that she thought it would be sad to arrive in Santiago alone. Having walked so much of this distance alone I can’t think that there would be anything sad about arriving in Santiago be it alone or otherwise. But of course I haven’t always walked alone. I’ve walked with Annie and Karina, with Dominique, with Donald, Laurence and Andreas, with Laura and Laslo and with Jennifer. And there are many others who I’ve shared conversations and meals with over the last 75 days. And tomorrow I won’t be alone either. I’ll walk to Santiago with Katia, Antonio, Marco, Wouter and Marina and Sergio. They have carried me the the final days of my journey and I am so lucky to have met them. And of course everyone reading has walked along with me and helped me with their messages and words of encouragement. They have meant to so much.

I expect the way tomorrow will be busy. I only have 19km remaining but it’s likely to be a slow walk. My best guess is I’ll arrive in Santiago around 1pm European time. That’s quite late in Australia and NZ and for my friends throughout Asia. But I hope you’ll take a moment to think of me tomorrow when I complete my journey and wish me a final Buen Camino. I’ll let you know when I get there.

Rain gear today, hoping for clear skies tomorrow

All Roads to Santiago

Today my morning walk switched between the forest and country roads again. After second breakfast the way was a gentle up hill slope and then once again I was amongst the windmills. I was heading for a lunch stop in the town of Melide. Unfortunately the last 5km was on a busy road. It requires a lot of focus and attention to the cars to ensure we stay out of their way.

Once in Melide the way merged with the Camino Frances, the path I chose not to take when I left Saint Jean Pied de Port and instead traversed the Pyrenees. Tomorrow the Camino del Norte will also join us along with all the Pilgrims I left behind when I turned onto the Primitivo. We then all make our way to Santiago together on one final stage. Almost there.

New ways

Today there were many new pairs of shoes worn by many new pilgrims on the way. Leaving Lugo there was a line of pilgrims and at the first rest stop there were many new faces. It was a little unsettling. But with the new faces there’s an opportunity to find a new friend at every corner.

The road from here is fairly flat and a lot less spectacular. In fact it’s so flat that I passed a man and a woman pushing a pram. That would not have been possible on the earlier terrain.

Amongst the new faces there are many who have walked the length of the Primitivo with me and even a few who have walked since the Del Norte. Today I walked with Katia and Antonio. It’s common for pilgrims to ask each other why we chose to walk and on our way today Antonio told me that he was pondering that question. Not long after we rounded a corner and came upon a beautiful vista. ‘This is why we walk’ Antonio declared. And it’s true, we have seen some beautiful and amazing things.

As I get closer to my destination I am watching the kilometres tick down on the way markers that are spaced at every few hundred metres. When this started in Glacicia I thought the constant reminder of distance might make each day difficult. But in fact the kilometres are now dissolving just like the days. As I get nearer I wonder if I’ll wake up tomorrow and find this has all been a difficult but wonderful dream. We’ll see.

On the way with Katia, photo credit Antonio.

The last 100km

More fog this morning so I couldn’t see much leaving Cadavo. Very quickly I was into the forest and it was a pleasant and peaceful walk switching between the dirt tracks of the forest and the country roads through the little towns.

I have arrived in Lugo which marks 100km to Santiago. I am now required to get 2 stamps per day in my pilgrim credential to prove my passage. In order to qualify for the official certificate of the Camino de Santiago pilgrims are required to walk, cycle or ride a horse for at least 100km on their path to Santiago. I have heard rumours that after such a long route my passage won’t be questioned but I don’t think I’ll take the risk.

From this point, the tour buses will start to arrive and offload hundreds of pilgrims, I understand it will get quite busy. I think it will be interesting to see how things change from here. I’ll find out tomorrow.

Into the fog

More fog today, it was thick and heavy and it lasted late into the morning. Everything felt a little eerie. Today was rolling hills. We were constantly climbing or descending and my legs were tired.

To make it even tougher, the first bar of the day which was 12km along the way was shut so I had to wait for second breakfast. After passing that bar we were told by a local that we could bypass a big hill if we walked along the highway. At this point, I’m more scared of the highway than I am of hills so I opted for the steep climb. Luckily the second bar after that big hill was open so I could get a coffee before the final stretch into O Cadavo where I’ll rest tonight.

Into Galicia

A big climb today. Up to the heights of the base of all those windmills I’ve been seeing. Again the views were lovely. And most of the way was on dirt or grass paths so my feet are doing really well. I thought the morning light was a little flat, but looking back my photos are quite nice once again. I hope you like them. T

he pilgrim community here is strong and we all converge in the bars for our coffee stops. We needed lots of coffee as the last 2km was especially tough. A big climb into Fonsagrada where I sleep tonight that tested even my strong legs.

Today I entered Galicia, the final region of my walk. Here, the scallop shells that indicate the way are on cement blocks that also include the distance to Santiago so I now see that number dropping almost every kilometre. It’s really not far now.

Lakes and dragons

The morning light today was fabulous yet again. leaving town I had a short walk through country roads. As I walked I could see windmills poking their tops through the clouds. As the clouds dissolved more of the windmills became visible. After I took second breakfast in La Mesa the clouds were gone and the windmills were fully visible.

From La Mesa I had a big climb, from the top I could see down to the river Navia. Then it was time to descend all the way down to the river, 1228 metres down. The views were stunning.

Once I arrived in Grande de Salime some other Pilgrims told me that the town is celebrating their festival. We went into the centre and enjoyed the local cuisine, music and a dragon. It was a wonderful ending to the day.

Los Hospitales

Today’s stage is said to be the most beautiful of all the Caminos of Santiago. Sadly I’ll never know because almost all I saw was thick fog. It rolled in last night while we were having dinner so the golf tournament didn’t go ahead. And it stayed until late morning. It’s also said to be one of the most demanding days of any Camino and includes the highest point of the Camino Primitivo. Luckily my legs are strong now and I managed the terrain well.

The track was well marked and the yellow arrows that we follow are very easy to see in the fog. The route wove around the ancient hospitals set up to house pilgrims on the original Primitivo. We could still see the ruins that dated back to the 13th century.

The sun did come out after my lunch break, and I had a lovely walk through the forests to arrive in Berducedo where I rest tonight.

The view from the highest point of Camino Primitivo