Camino Primitivo – Page 2 – Tash on The Way

Looking back

Way back in the early days of my walk my fellow pilgrim Donald commented that ‘we always start in a hole’. Today reminded me of that comment and those early days. I started in a Valley and as I left town I had to climb up and out. The views to the hill and the light were beautiful and rivalled those early days out of Le Puy.

There were many pilgrims as I climbed that hill. We all pass each other in the early stages of our walk. And then somehow we all spread out and I went for 5km without seeing anyone. But then I arrived at the first opportunity for coffee of the day and somehow we are all there at the same time.

After my coffee break it started to get very hot. There was another bar in only 2kms and many pilgrims had decided to stop again as they were struggling with the heat. I kept going and I was back in the forest for much of the afternoon. We climbed high again but the views remained wonderful.

I am staying tonight in the tiny village of Colinas de Arriba at a very nice Albergue. There’s a mini golf course and there’s talk of a Spain vs Rest of World tournament. I’ll to see if that happens. Meanwhile I’ll sit back and listen to the Spanish pilgrims play guitar and sing in Spanish.

Forest walks

I left just after 7 this morning and I was out of town and into the forest very quickly. The light under the canopy was very low, I was glad I didn’t leave earlier. It was nice to be on a dirt track. I started next to the river and before I new it I was 300m up above the valley floor. The climb was very gradual. Then a steep incline for about 150m and I was out of the forest and sadly into the highway. There was a long line of pilgrims in front of me.

Luckily the highway didn’t last long and then it was onto quiet country roads which passed through small hamlets. There was only one opportunity for coffee this morning and I was surprised when I arrived, the morning walk was much quicker than I expected.

After second breakfast it was back into the forest. It was so lovely I wanted to stay away from town for a bit longer so I sat down and had a picnic before finishing the day. Now I’m in Tineo, a lovely place to stay the night.

Hills and Valleys

Early start today. The temperature was forecast to pass 30 for the first time since the day I arrived in Spain. I’m not sure if it actually got there though, but 29 on the road is still very hot.

I was on the road before 7 and many other pilgrims did the same thing so there was a steady stream of us leaving town and people to chat to as we climbed the big hill. We went up for a long time providing lovely views of the valley. Eventually we headed down into that valley and past rivers and streams.

After my second breakfast I was into the forest and onto the dirt roads. It did start to heat up after that. The heat is so draining. I was very happy to arrive in Salas where I’ll spend the night.

300km

Yep, not long now. I remember when I had walked the first 150km and I thought I’d gone a really long way. Now, 300km seems like a small distance and I’ll be done in no time.

Leaving Oviedo this morning there were heaps of people on their way to work, strange to be in a city with people carrying out normal lives. When I got walking it was actually quite cold and there was fog in the distance. As I got out of the city and into the hills the views were obstructed by the fog, but the fog had it’s own beauty. The fog would eventually lift around 10 and deliver a sunny day.

Much of my walk today was through the forest and there were some hills. But when I descended to the valley floor I could hear the river even if I couldn’t always see it through the thick trees.

The Primitivo is brimming with new pilgrims, they are exited and strapping new clean shoes, I bet their soles are nice and spongy. I think my dusty old boots stand out.

New Feet

Well not exactly new feet but I did go to the Farmacia and buy new insoles for my boots. They have made a huge difference! For the first 10km of my day I felt like I was walking in pillows. The new insoles did firm up a bit after that and I only walked 17km today. But overall a huge improvement and at the end of the day my feet feel just fine. I’ll need to watch out for blisters but hopefully I can manage that.

I am now in Oviedo which marks the official start of the Primitivo. When I arrived at my albergue I was 10th in line for a bed everyone else was just starting their Camino here. I was a bit surprised, but for people with a 2 week holiday this route offers the opportunity to walk a complete Camino to Santiago.

My walk today was through country roads and along rivers. It was peaceful and I could feel a definite change from the Del Norte. It’s exciting to be walking a new path.

Fork in the road

Today I took the turn from the Camino del Norte onto the path that will lead me to the Camino Primitivo. The Primitivo’s official start is in Oviedo, until I get there tomorrow night I’m just transitioning between the two routes.

The turning point takes me inland and further away from the coast. Im again climbing hills and walking through forests. So much more satisfying than walking along the highways. I think I took a turn for the better.

Final coast walk

After tomorrow I plan to leave the Del Norte and make my approach to Santiago via the Camino Primitivo, so today was my last day walking along the coast.

Despite lots of clouds this morning the rain held off until I sat down to my second breakfast in Ribadesella. But luckily it only rained for the 10 minutes while I was sitting down and it cleared after that. I walked on and I stopped for my lunch break just outside of La Vega. And that’s when the second storm hit. I quickly packed up and donned my poncho before the rain started. With the wind it pelted down and it continued to rain on and off for the remainder of the afternoon. Luckily my tracks today were justly dirt so much softer on the feet. But not a great final day for the beach. At least I’m warm and inside now. Feet are feeling much better.

First glimpse of La Isla where I sleep tonight.