Camino Santiago – Page 2 – Tash on The Way

Into Galicia

A big climb today. Up to the heights of the base of all those windmills I’ve been seeing. Again the views were lovely. And most of the way was on dirt or grass paths so my feet are doing really well. I thought the morning light was a little flat, but looking back my photos are quite nice once again. I hope you like them. T

he pilgrim community here is strong and we all converge in the bars for our coffee stops. We needed lots of coffee as the last 2km was especially tough. A big climb into Fonsagrada where I sleep tonight that tested even my strong legs.

Today I entered Galicia, the final region of my walk. Here, the scallop shells that indicate the way are on cement blocks that also include the distance to Santiago so I now see that number dropping almost every kilometre. It’s really not far now.

Lakes and dragons

The morning light today was fabulous yet again. leaving town I had a short walk through country roads. As I walked I could see windmills poking their tops through the clouds. As the clouds dissolved more of the windmills became visible. After I took second breakfast in La Mesa the clouds were gone and the windmills were fully visible.

From La Mesa I had a big climb, from the top I could see down to the river Navia. Then it was time to descend all the way down to the river, 1228 metres down. The views were stunning.

Once I arrived in Grande de Salime some other Pilgrims told me that the town is celebrating their festival. We went into the centre and enjoyed the local cuisine, music and a dragon. It was a wonderful ending to the day.

Los Hospitales

Today’s stage is said to be the most beautiful of all the Caminos of Santiago. Sadly I’ll never know because almost all I saw was thick fog. It rolled in last night while we were having dinner so the golf tournament didn’t go ahead. And it stayed until late morning. It’s also said to be one of the most demanding days of any Camino and includes the highest point of the Camino Primitivo. Luckily my legs are strong now and I managed the terrain well.

The track was well marked and the yellow arrows that we follow are very easy to see in the fog. The route wove around the ancient hospitals set up to house pilgrims on the original Primitivo. We could still see the ruins that dated back to the 13th century.

The sun did come out after my lunch break, and I had a lovely walk through the forests to arrive in Berducedo where I rest tonight.

The view from the highest point of Camino Primitivo

Looking back

Way back in the early days of my walk my fellow pilgrim Donald commented that ‘we always start in a hole’. Today reminded me of that comment and those early days. I started in a Valley and as I left town I had to climb up and out. The views to the hill and the light were beautiful and rivalled those early days out of Le Puy.

There were many pilgrims as I climbed that hill. We all pass each other in the early stages of our walk. And then somehow we all spread out and I went for 5km without seeing anyone. But then I arrived at the first opportunity for coffee of the day and somehow we are all there at the same time.

After my coffee break it started to get very hot. There was another bar in only 2kms and many pilgrims had decided to stop again as they were struggling with the heat. I kept going and I was back in the forest for much of the afternoon. We climbed high again but the views remained wonderful.

I am staying tonight in the tiny village of Colinas de Arriba at a very nice Albergue. There’s a mini golf course and there’s talk of a Spain vs Rest of World tournament. I’ll to see if that happens. Meanwhile I’ll sit back and listen to the Spanish pilgrims play guitar and sing in Spanish.