Chemin – Page 2 – Tash on The Way

More corn and the return of yellow signs

I left Aire Sur L’Aour early this morning to get started on another long day. After I got outside the city outskirts I had a nice walk around a lake before going through an underpass beneath a large highway.

And then I was back in the corn. For most of the morning and the next 10kms, corn on either side. A very long morning. I stopped for lunch in Miramont-Sensacq and a much needed coffee. After that the way was much more interesting and varied. At Pimbo where I stopped for my afternoon break and a cold sugary drink there was a splendid view.

After leaving Pimbo I saw a yellow sign with distance information to the next towns, and also Santiago. This number clicked down below 1000km for the first time today. These signs were common at the start of my walk but for some reason they stopped a couple of weeks in. Strangely, seeing these again put a spring in my step. It felt like I was back on track.

Unfortunately I think there’ll be a lot more corn tomorrow, but at some stage soon I will get my first glimpse of the Pyrenees. When that happens will depend on the clarity of the sky. As the Pyrenees approaches, I’ll need to decide my path across mountains and through Spain. Things to contemplate over the coming days. I hope there’s more yellow signs.

Looking back to Pimbo after my afternoon break

Rain on the way

The day started with rain. And as the morning progressed it got heavier. Things were quite bleak actually. My boots that had got me through all those puddles started to let the rain in and my sox got really wet. I was trudging through 15km without any significant landmarks to distract me. The rain did clear late morning. And when I stopped for lunch I changed my saturated sox and things did get better.

But there wasn’t much along the way today to entertain me, not even a coffee or a bakery. At one stage I was walking for 4.5km with corn on either side of me and I couldn’t see above. For much of today I considered how I’m going to stay motivated for the rest of my walk. I’m yet to find the answer.

I’ve now been walking for 4 weeks. I’m feeling exceptionally strong and I can walk a 28km day as I did today and feel quite ok at the end of it. It’s a great to feel this fit and strong. Still a very long way to go…

The rain hitting a little pond I walked past

Vines, corn and wheat

When I’m walking now I’m aware that the most spectacular parts of my time in France are behind me. The walking is extremely pleasant and significantly less strenuous than my first few weeks. But it’s also less rewarding.

Much of my time today was again on tracks through the forest or beside fields of corn, wheat or vines. It was nice and cool under the shade of the forests and the fields provided regular changes of scenery. I was also happy to pass a few more sunflower fields. I’ll be out of sunflower country soon so I do my best to enjoy those happy yellow faces while I can. Each one could be the last.

I was tired today after 2 big stages. To give myself a bit of a pick me up I busted out the earbuds for the first time and played some tunes (noise canceling off so I found still hear stuff). It was a great boost and it made my walk so enjoyable. Felt like I was walking to Shelly beach at home, of course with very different scenery and a lot further. I am in Nogaro tonight, I’ll take a rest day tomorrow. I’m very much looking forward to being still.

Forests and Armagnac

I left Condom this morning walking along the Baise river. Most of my day today was under leafy forests. The day lacked the spectacular scenery of some of my previous stages but it was very pleasant walking and great to be in the shade.

I’m between the forests there were some vineyards which I walked beside. Im now I’m Armagnac country so it’s likely that the white grapes I passed will be used for its production.

I was lucky enough to have a taste of Armagnac with dinner tonight. It was rather delicious.

I will walk 500km

Done. I arrived in the protection of Condom today. (sadly there’s no local humour about the name of this town) With that I am safely 1/3 of the way through my journey.

Today started with another diversion, after about 1km I was sent off the track and onto a big road. It wasn’t as bad as yesterday though, a major road but not a highway, and there was a somewhat spacious shoulder. However after 2 km the diversion ended and I was back on the way and feeling much happier.

The day was nice after that. Lots of sunflowers, nice Roman towns to stop for coffee and lunch. Lots of countryside. A big fat, so it was tough but my legs are adjusting to the distances.

And my Gîte tonight has a pool so I had my second swim in two days. Awesome.

A small lake I walked around this afternoon

Walking on the road

Today started with more sunflowers. I passed fields where they were nearly completely in bloom. Lovely.

It continues to surprise that I haven’t gotten completely lost in rural France. Then today, somewhere after about 2 kilometres of walking I missed a marker and I ended up walking off route with no way markings. When I realised I was off track I checked google and realised the road I was on was heading for the town I wanted so I was ok. It only added about a kilometre to my trip. And it shows that even when I get lost il always close to somewhere. I was even passed by a taxi at one stage. However walking on the big roads is fairly unpleasant. Especially when cars pass at speed.

Not long after getting back on track the way was blocked by signs saying that the route was impassable and we had to walk along the highway. There was a plus side to this that the highway is a more direct route, however walking along the highway was frightening. There were trucks and cars going at high speeds. And the shoulder was often thin or just not there at all. Usually the traffic would give as much space as possible and often even an encouraging toot. But there were other times when there was no or little space and at one stage I crossed a safety barrier to get clear of a line of big trucks. There were a few tears at this point. If the way is closed tomorrow will definitely jump in taxis or bus.

Not my favourite day on the trail, but in a happy ending the town where I’m staying, Lectoure has a thermal hot spring so I headed there for the afternoon. I’m now enjoying a local sorbet before dinner. Onward.

Sunflowers looking to the early morning sun

Sunflowers on the way

Short day today. I’m slowing down a bit while the temperatures are high. The heat is so draining. But there is a flip side to heat, the sunflowers are blooming. They are like big sunny faces looking up at me. Hopefully the numbers in bloom continues to grow over the coming days.

I passed through three tiny French villages today. One offered a great coffee and the others nice shady spots to sit after filling my water bottle.

The way continues to be blocked by fallen trees. There are now signs posted indicating there’s debris on the track all the way to Condom where I plan to arrive on Wednesday. They seem to be removing debris slowly but it’s taking time. Some of those towns I passed through have been without internet since Thursday.

Looking back to Flamerens where I stopped for lunch

Approaching Miradoux where I slept tonight.

Back on the trail

Wild ride today. Most of my walk was along a canal, a nice pathway lined by trees and lots of shade. However the recent storms have caused a lot of damage and there were many trees across the trail. The path was passable but it wasn’t easy. I felt a bit like a Ninja warrior going up over and around the obstacles.

When I left the canal behind I had a hot walk along roads with fields on either side and not a lot of shade. Eventually I arrive in Auvillar, another hilltop town which looks out over the Garonne river. Looks like a lovely place to spend the evening.

Au revoir mes amies

Tonight I said a final goodbye to Karina and Annie. They also plan to walk to Santiago however they’ll complete their journey across three years. Today we entered Moissac together and after dinner we said a sad goodbye. They will take a train to Bordeaux tomorrow and fly back to Canada from there. It was wonderful sharing the way with them. I have been so lucky to enjoy their friendship and their courage through the many uphill and downhill challenges. I will miss them tomorrow as I head off by myself and each day after.

In happier news I passed the 400km mark today. I have come so far, but there’s still a long way to go. No doubt I’ll meet many new friends along the way.

In Laurzete last night with Karina and Annie

Puddles and Mud and Van Gogh

There has been a lot of rain in France. And there is so much water on the trail. And mud. We don’t have mud like this in Australia. At times, I worry that my boot will get stuck in the mud and I’ll keep going.

The puddles cross the trail so I have to navigate my way around them. The edges are more stable. At one point today the path had turned into a waterfall and I had to go through slowly. Very slippery.

When I did look up from the mud snd puddles I was greeted with a scene that could have been painted by Van Gogh. I am in Laurzerte. A town I have never heard of before and would never have stepped through if it wasn’t for the Camino. The day was tough with mud and steep hills. But the rewards are numerous.

Up and out of Cahors

Today’s climb out of Cahors was my last big climb before I get to the Pyrénées . I’ve noticed that I’m a lot stronger on the hills now and I can power up those climbs. Hopefully I still have that strength when I hit the big hills of the Pyrénées. But I’m also getting quite tired. The effort across multiple days is starting to build. I generally feel pretty good once I’m out walking though.

Leaving Cahors I also said goodbye to The Lot, the river I’ve been circling around for the last week now. From here things will start to change again. I’ll move from seeing the cows of the Aubrac region and into fields of sunflowers and corn. I passed my first sunflower field today but sadly they were yet to bloom. Hopefully there’ll be some more down the road.

Me on the bridge, trying not to let the rain or the big hill worry me