Early start today. The temperature was forecast to pass 30 for the first time since the day I arrived in Spain. I’m not sure if it actually got there though, but 29 on the road is still very hot.
I was on the road before 7 and many other pilgrims did the same thing so there was a steady stream of us leaving town and people to chat to as we climbed the big hill. We went up for a long time providing lovely views of the valley. Eventually we headed down into that valley and past rivers and streams.
After my second breakfast I was into the forest and onto the dirt roads. It did start to heat up after that. The heat is so draining. I was very happy to arrive in Salas where I’ll spend the night.
Leaving GradoTreeMist in the valley Ready to walk down the hill
I missed a big milestone yesterday passing 50 days on the way. To keep me guessing there was a bit of fun with the distance markings today. After I’d been walking for a few kilometres there was a distance marker to Laredo where i would stop tonight. 22kms. Ok.
I walked a few more kms, there was another marker to Laredo…25kms. What??? I was not happy. I kept walking, I’m not sure how far. Then I started up a hill. Not a particularly big hill, not even particularly steep. But i was annoyed and the hill made everything worse. I decided that it was very unreasonable to have this hill right here. Obviously this made me feel even worse and made the climb even harder. About half way up there was another distance marker – 17km. At that point I’d stop keeping track and was unsure how far I’d walked since the last marker, but it wasn’t more than a few kms.
Eventually I started heading down hill, and I looked up and around and realised that everything around me was completely different from the scenery I’d seen so far in Spain. I also realised that I hadn’t seen a way marker for some time. And this time I started to get worried. Was I on the wrong track? But not long after I saw a familiar yellow arrow, and suddenly there were other pilgrims in front and coming behind me.
I was also about to arrive in Liendo where I had my coffee break. There were more hills after Liendo but these were much more agreeable, and they delivered magical coastal views that continued for the remainder of my walk. When I finally arrived in Laredo my Garmin had clocked 20km.
Leaving Islares today Finally remembering to look upCoastal views
I was very nervous leaving St Jean Pied de Port this morning. Over 1000 pilgrims leave St Jean each day bit most take the Camino Frances. I didn’t see any other pilgrims on my path today.
For the first few kilometres I followed the familiar red and white marks along the GR10, but after that the route split and the Voie Nive Bisassoa started. I’ve been following those red and white marks since I left Le Puy, I was sad to say goodbye. The GR10 would also take me to Irun but with exceptionally difficult climbs. Given the weight of my bag and traveling alone I decided to pass on that route. With one exception where I got a little lost the way marking held and I was able to navigate quite well.
I realised that I was exceptionally lucky to be taking this walk through the Pyrenees and that it was a privilege to do so on my own. I did meet some walkers after my lunch break who were going on another path and some people with horses not long after who were heading in the opposite direction.
I can see the hills and mountains all around and I regularly pass streams and rivers at the bottom of the valleys. Tte long days of corn seem like a long time ago.
Looking back on St JeanThe hillsMy path diverging from the GR10 with new way markings More hills
And they are awe inspiring. Clear skies leaving Arthez de Bearn this morning allowed me to look out across the valley and over to the mountains. As I walked out of Athez I headed north, on my left to west I could see the Pyrenees and my walk for the next few days. On my right was what I’ve already covered. I have come along way.
Short day today, only 17km. And tomorrow will be shorter again. I walked quite slowly knowing there was no hurry and no where to be. It was a nice change of pace from the last 3 days. The scenery is changing again. There was still a little bit of corn but for the most part I was on tracks that took me up and down hills and through forests. it’s so much nicer than endless fields of corn. Onward.
First look at the Pyrenees Rolling hills with the Pyrenees in the background Walking over a bridge
There has been a lot of rain in France. And there is so much water on the trail. And mud. We don’t have mud like this in Australia. At times, I worry that my boot will get stuck in the mud and I’ll keep going.
The puddles cross the trail so I have to navigate my way around them. The edges are more stable. At one point today the path had turned into a waterfall and I had to go through slowly. Very slippery.
When I did look up from the mud snd puddles I was greeted with a scene that could have been painted by Van Gogh. I am in Laurzerte. A town I have never heard of before and would never have stepped through if it wasn’t for the Camino. The day was tough with mud and steep hills. But the rewards are numerous.
Water running down the track Puddles and mud across the track Looking up from the mud Out through the trees On top of the world
Today’s climb out of Cahors was my last big climb before I get to the Pyrénées . I’ve noticed that I’m a lot stronger on the hills now and I can power up those climbs. Hopefully I still have that strength when I hit the big hills of the Pyrénées. But I’m also getting quite tired. The effort across multiple days is starting to build. I generally feel pretty good once I’m out walking though.
Leaving Cahors I also said goodbye to The Lot, the river I’ve been circling around for the last week now. From here things will start to change again. I’ll move from seeing the cows of the Aubrac region and into fields of sunflowers and corn. I passed my first sunflower field today but sadly they were yet to bloom. Hopefully there’ll be some more down the road.
The hill I would climb up out of CahorsThe lovely bridge I would cross Me on the bridge, trying not to let the rain or the big hill worry meHalf way up and looking back
Tough day today. 32km, 32 degrees. More big hills. And much of the terrain was on the roads. The roads are hot and very hard on the feet.
The last 2km into the town I planned to stop for lunch were exhausting. I wasn’t looking forward to the afternoon. But somehow the break revived me a bit.
In the afternoon we had DJ Annie on the decks playing songs on her iPhone speaker. Fun songs everyone can sing along to – Hot Stuff, Higher Love, That’s the Way (I like it) and finally I Will Survive. Sing along and dance. Donald found us half way through singing and dancing to Higher Love.
It was a fun way to get thorough a hot and strenuous afternoon and up some of the steep hills. Tomorrow will be lighter I hope.
Post the Higher Love Sing Along Coming into Cajarc tonight
One of the toughest that I’ll do. A 3km ascent that was so steep my watch didn’t even register the distance I was covering. Normally when people come up behind me on the path I hear the clack of their poles. Today I heard the breathing first.
When I pass others we normally exchange bonjours. About half way up the bonjours stopped and were replaced with nods of mutual acknowledgment . Eventually the nods stopped too and it was simply a moment of eye contact.
We all got to the top in the end. And when I did the scenery and landscape changed again. In the afternoon the bonjours were replaced with ‘we made it’. Everyone was so happy to have that hill behind them. I’ll rest well tonight.
In Conques before the big hillLooking back on Conques about half way upLavender at the topDifferent scenery today.
Leaving Estaing today I weaved along The Lot river walking along the road through the forest. My ascent was 300m taking me up to an altitude of 600m, not that high compared to the climbs of my initial days on the trail. But the hill was steep and for the first I wondered why on earth I’m walking between towns when I could be enjoying a coffee and then jumping in a cab to my destination. I’m sure this won’t be the last time I have this thought.
The hill kept going. Even when I was sure I was at the top there was more to climb. When eventually I did hit the top the descent started straight away. It was hard on the legs and once again I was very happy to have my waking poles.
Despite the tough hills there are other moments that are breathtaking. The scenery continues to change and reward. And the walking is very peaceful.
P.S. My blisters seem to have healed. Very relieved. Feet are in good shape!
Ascending out of the Lot ValleyThe changing landscape
That my walk will take 2.5 hours today. What?? I was checking the location of my hotel before I left this morning and yep, if I walked along the roads my 6.5 hour day would have been much shorter. Why on earth am I walking up all these hills?
While I was walking a guy pulled over in his car and wanted to talk to me. In Australia this might have felt really threatening, but here it was ok. He asked if I was going all the way to Santiago and he told me I was crazy, ‘Haven’t you heard of a plane?’, he said gesturing a plane taking off. We both laughed and went on our seperate ways.
As I left Saint Come today I walked over the Lot river. It was swollen from the rain of the past few days and there was mist all around. My path today would take me up and through 2 other towns along the river. Once I left Saint Come I climbed up over the hill through the mist. It was hard going but lovely to be in the mist and the thick green forest. At first when I got to the top I thought I was going to miss the view due to the mist. Luckily the mist broke and I saw the stunning valleys below.
Why am I walking up all these hills? Many reasons. I am enjoying the challenge of the steep inclines, and I love looking back and seeing where I’ve been. Today I also had the privilege of descending down into Espalion and Estaing. It was breathtaking.
Looking back to Saint Come after crossing The Lot RiverEspalionArriving in Estaing
Tash on The Way 