On the trail – Tash on The Way

The end of the world and of the blog

I left before the sun was up again this morning and I was straight into the forest. There was a time when I would have been too scared to walk into the dark, not anymore. After a couple of kilometres I was out and onto the road and it started raining. Somehow it felt right that there was some rain on my last day of walking. Luckily I wasn’t on the road for long. I was back on the dirt tracks and very quickly I had my first views to the ocean. But there was still a long way to go.

I had to walk for 13km before I would reach the coast and another 15km to the town of Finistère. As I got closer to the ocean the sky started to clear, the sun came out. Those last 15km were some of the hardest I’ve done. The terrain was easy but I was tired and I felt every step. I was slow.

When I arrived at Finistère I was able to leave my backpack before starting the final hike to the End of the World. Heading up that last hill was joyous. No tears this time. I was happy to be walking along the cliffs and getting so close to the end. The final kilometres were slow, but then, finally, I arrived at that 0km sign.

I have walked across an entire country, traversed the Pyrenees and a good part of France. I cannot believe that I have walked so far and seen and experienced so much. I am proud of what I’ve done and extremely grateful to have had the freedom to go on an adventure.

I am lucky to have crossed paths with the wonderful people who made my adventure so special. I have met many people and made many friends. But Karina, Annie, Donald, Andreas, Antonio, Wouter and Katia shared their strength with me and made sure I’d keep going when I had nothing left. There were turns and trials along the way that led me to each of them. I would not change a single thing.

And now it’s done and so am I. I’ve put down my backpack and unlaced my boots for the final time. It’s time to stop following those yellow arrows, I’ll have to work out where I’m going without them.

One more day

There was a big change in the weather overnight and I woke up to cold cloudy day. It was much easier to walk in. The first few kilometres was along the road, it would have been very tough in the afternoon heat yesterday. I was very glad I broke up the stage. But the road was long and I was tired. I think I’m ready to stop walking walking now.

After a short stop for second breakfast I was back on the road but I managed to pick up my pace a little bit. Not only was there Riad but I saw a lot of my old friend corn today. Luckily there were mountains on either side and it didn’t go for too long. Then I finally turned off the road and the last few kilometres were along a dirt track, up into the windmills and looking down into valleys and rivers. It was a pretty end to my second last day on the trail.

I’m in Logoso tonight, I have 28km to Finistère and to the finish line. It feels right that my last day will be a longer one.

Sunrise and heat

It was again dark when I started on my way this morning. After leaving Negreira there was an alternate path through the forest and off the road. Even though it was hard to see I thought it would be nicer to be off the concrete and next to the river. When I finally emerged from the forest I was treated to a stunning sunrise. There had been some light rain overnight and their were a few clouds remaining to decorate the sky.

It wasn’t long before it started getting hot. Really hot, Aussie summer style. After second breakfast the waking got tough and there was little shade to escape the sun. I’m glad I chose split today’s stage and break this final journey into for rather than three parts.

I’ve arrived in Santa Marina, a tiny hamlet where I’ll spend the night. It will be much cooler tomorrow but I’ll only walk 15km. I’ll be able to have a sleep in and a shorter day before my final push to the end.

Back on the way

It was a hot one today. I started walking well before first light to make the most of the cooler temperatures. Santiago felt very different in the early hours of the morning without the buzz of the tourists. Once I was out of the city I entered a very dark forest. I entered slowly and waited for my eyes to adjust. I could just make out the yellow arrows which continue to guide me along my way. I

It wasn’t long before I was out of the forest or until the sun came up. But I did struggle in the first 5km. The emotion of the last few days was weighing me down and I was missing the Primitivo crew. But after second breakfast and a few lovely messages from home I found my stride again. There were many pilgrims on the way, most with shiny new shoes and fresh bright sox.

I arrived in Negreira just after noon and before the intense afternoon heat had set in. Tomorrow will also be hot so I’ll have another short day

The highs and lows of Santiago and continuing to the coast

Yesterday was a day of emotion. Before setting out for the final stage those of us who had walked the Primitivo met for coffee. The group would form and reform throughout the day but we rejoined for second breakfast after 5km, again at the top of the hill in Monte de Gozo where we got out first views of Santiago and of course in front of the cathedral where we finally set down our backpacks. It was a moment of pure joy and celebration.

I was so lucky to share the final kilometres of my journey with such a wonderful group of people. Katia, Antonio and Wouter have carried me through the last few days, it has been so much easier having them walk alongside me. I am lucky and grateful to have taken the turns in the road that led me to them. I wouldn’t change anything. There are so many others who walked with me through my long journey, too many to name here. They all know who they are and how special walking with them has been. I have also received many messages of congratulations from home, I’m still in the process of replying to many of these but I have read them all.

I have rested today, and after much consideration I have decided I will continue my walk tomorrow. There is 90km to the western coast, a place called Finistère which they call the end of the world. At this point another 90km doesn’t seem that far. It’s going to be hot this week so I’ll take it slowly and aim to cover the distance in 4 days. I’ll continue my blog while I continue my walk.

Finally an anticlimax today. I went to the pilgrim office to receive my Compostela the certificate all pilgrims who walk the minimum 100km receive for completing the Camino Santiago. There is also an option to request an additional certificate which states your starting location, the route you took and the distance walked. Unfortunately as I walked a path less traveled the pilgrim office was not prepared to recognise the full distance I walked and instead would only recognise the distance of the Camino Frances, about 100km less than I traveled. While the number is not important at this point, and of course neither is the paper it was still a little heartbreaking that the distance wouldn’t be recognised. I decided to leave the additional certificate. I know how far I’ve walked and the paths I’ve taken.

I made it

Here I am. I will write a proper update tomorrow. For now it’s time to celebrate.

Thank you for all the messages of encouragement and congratulations for my final day and across my entire journey. I have read them all.

Tomorrow

It’s hard to believe after so long on the way, tomorrow I’ll arrive in Santiago. When I arrive I’ll have walked over 1600km. That’s the equivalent of walking from Melbourne to Byron Bay or Perth to Karratha. For reference for my international friends, google says Seoul to Tokyo is 1147km and Montreal to Chicago is 1352km. I’ve gone a long way.

We had rain on the way today, it was peaceful and quiet and many of my pilgrim friends chose to have some time alone to think about the journey so far, myself included. I actually didn’t take many photos today so the photo credits for today go to my friend Wouter. Thanks for sharing.

Way back when I arrived in Saint Jean Pied de Port my unofficial halfway point, another pilgrim said to me that she thought it would be sad to arrive in Santiago alone. Having walked so much of this distance alone I can’t think that there would be anything sad about arriving in Santiago be it alone or otherwise. But of course I haven’t always walked alone. I’ve walked with Annie and Karina, with Dominique, with Donald, Laurence and Andreas, with Laura and Laslo and with Jennifer. And there are many others who I’ve shared conversations and meals with over the last 75 days. And tomorrow I won’t be alone either. I’ll walk to Santiago with Katia, Antonio, Marco, Wouter and Marina and Sergio. They have carried me the the final days of my journey and I am so lucky to have met them. And of course everyone reading has walked along with me and helped me with their messages and words of encouragement. They have meant to so much.

I expect the way tomorrow will be busy. I only have 19km remaining but it’s likely to be a slow walk. My best guess is I’ll arrive in Santiago around 1pm European time. That’s quite late in Australia and NZ and for my friends throughout Asia. But I hope you’ll take a moment to think of me tomorrow when I complete my journey and wish me a final Buen Camino. I’ll let you know when I get there.

Rain gear today, hoping for clear skies tomorrow

All Roads to Santiago

Today my morning walk switched between the forest and country roads again. After second breakfast the way was a gentle up hill slope and then once again I was amongst the windmills. I was heading for a lunch stop in the town of Melide. Unfortunately the last 5km was on a busy road. It requires a lot of focus and attention to the cars to ensure we stay out of their way.

Once in Melide the way merged with the Camino Frances, the path I chose not to take when I left Saint Jean Pied de Port and instead traversed the Pyrenees. Tomorrow the Camino del Norte will also join us along with all the Pilgrims I left behind when I turned onto the Primitivo. We then all make our way to Santiago together on one final stage. Almost there.

New ways

Today there were many new pairs of shoes worn by many new pilgrims on the way. Leaving Lugo there was a line of pilgrims and at the first rest stop there were many new faces. It was a little unsettling. But with the new faces there’s an opportunity to find a new friend at every corner.

The road from here is fairly flat and a lot less spectacular. In fact it’s so flat that I passed a man and a woman pushing a pram. That would not have been possible on the earlier terrain.

Amongst the new faces there are many who have walked the length of the Primitivo with me and even a few who have walked since the Del Norte. Today I walked with Katia and Antonio. It’s common for pilgrims to ask each other why we chose to walk and on our way today Antonio told me that he was pondering that question. Not long after we rounded a corner and came upon a beautiful vista. ‘This is why we walk’ Antonio declared. And it’s true, we have seen some beautiful and amazing things.

As I get closer to my destination I am watching the kilometres tick down on the way markers that are spaced at every few hundred metres. When this started in Glacicia I thought the constant reminder of distance might make each day difficult. But in fact the kilometres are now dissolving just like the days. As I get nearer I wonder if I’ll wake up tomorrow and find this has all been a difficult but wonderful dream. We’ll see.

On the way with Katia, photo credit Antonio.

The last 100km

More fog this morning so I couldn’t see much leaving Cadavo. Very quickly I was into the forest and it was a pleasant and peaceful walk switching between the dirt tracks of the forest and the country roads through the little towns.

I have arrived in Lugo which marks 100km to Santiago. I am now required to get 2 stamps per day in my pilgrim credential to prove my passage. In order to qualify for the official certificate of the Camino de Santiago pilgrims are required to walk, cycle or ride a horse for at least 100km on their path to Santiago. I have heard rumours that after such a long route my passage won’t be questioned but I don’t think I’ll take the risk.

From this point, the tour buses will start to arrive and offload hundreds of pilgrims, I understand it will get quite busy. I think it will be interesting to see how things change from here. I’ll find out tomorrow.

Into the fog

More fog today, it was thick and heavy and it lasted late into the morning. Everything felt a little eerie. Today was rolling hills. We were constantly climbing or descending and my legs were tired.

To make it even tougher, the first bar of the day which was 12km along the way was shut so I had to wait for second breakfast. After passing that bar we were told by a local that we could bypass a big hill if we walked along the highway. At this point, I’m more scared of the highway than I am of hills so I opted for the steep climb. Luckily the second bar after that big hill was open so I could get a coffee before the final stretch into O Cadavo where I’ll rest tonight.