On the trail – Page 7 – Tash on The Way

Big climb

One of the toughest that I’ll do. A 3km ascent that was so steep my watch didn’t even register the distance I was covering. Normally when people come up behind me on the path I hear the clack of their poles. Today I heard the breathing first.

When I pass others we normally exchange bonjours. About half way up the bonjours stopped and were replaced with nods of mutual acknowledgment . Eventually the nods stopped too and it was simply a moment of eye contact.

We all got to the top in the end. And when I did the scenery and landscape changed again. In the afternoon the bonjours were replaced with ‘we made it’. Everyone was so happy to have that hill behind them. I’ll rest well tonight.

Looking back on Conques about half way up

Counting Butterflies

On my way today I noticed that there were butterflies all around. So I decided to spend the next 10 minutes counting my butterfly sightings. At one point there was a flurry of them into the air and I actually couldn’t count them all. There were so many colours, and when I took the time to notice even the ones that I thought were just white had intricate patterns. 75 butterflies. That many butterflies will put a smile on your face that lasts. What a way to spend the morning.

My destination today was Conques. In a happy miscalculation my day was 5kms shorter than I’d anticipated and I arrived early. I went to my Gîte and sat down in the sunshine to enjoy the bread, fromage and apple in my pack. The owner of the Gîte came up to my table with a small glass of champagne from the bottle they’d had at lunch. Surely life cannot get any better.

But then it did. My Canadian friends Annie and Karina who I’d said goodbye to a couple of days earlier walked in. They had decided to take a rest day today and remain in Conque. Champagne and 2 old friends, that’s 78 butterflies.

Conques will be the last stop for many of the people I’ve met along the way. I have spent 10 days walking. If I took the train back to my start point that ride would take a little over two hours. End of post.

Leaving the Lot

Leaving Estaing today I weaved along The Lot river walking along the road through the forest. My ascent was 300m taking me up to an altitude of 600m, not that high compared to the climbs of my initial days on the trail. But the hill was steep and for the first I wondered why on earth I’m walking between towns when I could be enjoying a coffee and then jumping in a cab to my destination. I’m sure this won’t be the last time I have this thought.

The hill kept going. Even when I was sure I was at the top there was more to climb. When eventually I did hit the top the descent started straight away. It was hard on the legs and once again I was very happy to have my waking poles.

Despite the tough hills there are other moments that are breathtaking. The scenery continues to change and reward. And the walking is very peaceful.

P.S. My blisters seem to have healed. Very relieved. Feet are in good shape!

Google says…

That my walk will take 2.5 hours today. What?? I was checking the location of my hotel before I left this morning and yep, if I walked along the roads my 6.5 hour day would have been much shorter. Why on earth am I walking up all these hills?

While I was walking a guy pulled over in his car and wanted to talk to me. In Australia this might have felt really threatening, but here it was ok. He asked if I was going all the way to Santiago and he told me I was crazy, ‘Haven’t you heard of a plane?’, he said gesturing a plane taking off. We both laughed and went on our seperate ways.

As I left Saint Come today I walked over the Lot river. It was swollen from the rain of the past few days and there was mist all around. My path today would take me up and through 2 other towns along the river. Once I left Saint Come I climbed up over the hill through the mist. It was hard going but lovely to be in the mist and the thick green forest. At first when I got to the top I thought I was going to miss the view due to the mist. Luckily the mist broke and I saw the stunning valleys below.

Why am I walking up all these hills? Many reasons. I am enjoying the challenge of the steep inclines, and I love looking back and seeing where I’ve been. Today I also had the privilege of descending down into Espalion and Estaing. It was breathtaking.

Looking back to Saint Come after crossing The Lot River

Goodbye to Aubrac

As I left St Chelay this morning I said goodbye to beautiful Aubrac region. As soon as I climbed out of the valley the terrain started to change. I was in the forest and today I would walk part rivers and streams. In Aubrac I saw many different shades of green. Now I see yellow in the countryside.

While I am descending off the Aubrac pass, the terrain is undulating and there are still many challenging climbs. The downhill stretches are exceptionally steep. I am glad I split this stage into two. I could enjoy the scenery and an easier pace.

The number of pilgrims is starting to thin out. Unfortunately there are stories of people ending there path due to blisters or other injuries. Others simply stopped due to short holidays. I’m now walking longer stretches where I don’t see other pilgrims. I like the time to think but I have to be careful to pay attention to the way markings when there’s no one else to follow.

I am now one week in to my Camino. I am tired but I am also adjusting to the weight of my pack and my feet are holding up. At the end of my stage tomorrow I will have walked more than 150km.

I rest tonight in Saint Comme, another pretty village. Looking forward to a shower and dinner as always.

This is not a food blog

but… my breakfast this morning needs a mention. It was delicious. Le prosciutto, le fromage, le pain and Le cafe. C’est délicieux. The best breakfast I have had so far. Often when I’m walking, I think of Bilbo Baggins in The Hobbit. At the start of his journey he lamented the lack of his second breakfast. Poor Bilbo. In tribute to Bilbo I have been enjoying second breakfast each day. After all, Lucas said I need the carbs. I enjoy une Pain au Raisin, or un Pain Chocolat at my mid morning rest stop. C’est bon, it helps me keep going until lunch.

Back to the trail…

Today I enjoyed my last day in the Aubrac Region. My guide book recommended a 35km stage today. I decided to split that in half. I am so glad I did. It allowed me to enjoy the Aubrac region at a steady pace. It is so lovely I am worried that the remainder of my journey through France may be boring in comparison. Let’s see. The shorter distance allowed me soak up the beauty that I may never see again. There are so many shades of green here, they continue to be broken with the flowers of spring. I walked through forests and saw grand valleys. In Aubrac I was waking at around 1200m. From here, my walk through France will be literally all downhill until I cross the Pyrenees into Spain.

Tonight I rest in Saint Chelay d’Aubrac. Tomorrow I have another short stage by Camino standards. I am feeling happy and content and adjusting to the rhythms of my Camino. I am looking forward to my adventures. Unlike Bilbo, I won’t be robbing a Dragon, but I’m sure there are many exciting things to come.

Let it rain

Today started with market day in Almand-Albrac. The produce was exceptional. I would have loved to buy the asparagus to cook. I had to settle for apples and oranges for trail snacks instead. Today’s stage would lead me through the Albrac region, I was told to expect one of the most scenic days of my time in France. It delivered.

Today was one of two stages with the possibility for year round snow. Luckily there wasn’t any snow but there was rain. There was also spring in all its glory. When the rain started many of my fellow pilgrims got their rain gear out. I resisted for some time. The rain was a light mist, nothing compared to a Sydney storm. Eventually I pulled out my poncho.

The mist fell, but it still felt like spring. There were flowers on either side of me throughout the walk. Yellow, white, purple and pink were scattered through the green. Birds were singing, happy cows were mooing. It was delightful. I was constantly aware that I would likely never walk this path again and I wanted to remember it.

The rain did kick in after my lunch break. With 3.2km to go I stopped and I was getting tired. Magically, my new friends from Montreal, Karina and Annie appeared. We met on the path to Saint Albain and have been meeting at regular intervals ever since. We were all resting in Nasibals tonight and they suggested we walk the remaining distance together and enjoy a wine before going to our accommodation. The last few kilometres is always tough. Karina and Annie were my Peloton for the remaining kilometres. Their momentum carried me. When we arrived in Nadibals we enjoyed some Rose together before heading to our rooms. It was my favourite afternoon of the Camino so far.

Me in my poncho, but still enjoying the trail

Going off track

I lost my way today. Coming out of Saint-Alban I missed the markings and kept going down a highway. The way markings disappeared and I knew something was wrong. Whenever I’ve been uncertain about the path I’ve looked at my watch and said ‘if you don’t see a marker in 5 mins go back’. The markings have always come up… but not this time. Once I realised I was off track, I pulled out my guide book and realised I’d missed a turn onto a dirt track. The detour added a kilometre to my day. Luckily today was short.

Once I was back on track the walk was peaceful. It was nice to take my time knowing that I didn’t have to rush and my destination was close by Camino standards.

About 10km along I was passed by a group of six pilgrims. They were probably in their 20s and they were moving so fast it felt like they ran past me. Not long after we came to an incredibly steep descent comprised of large boulders. It was super tricky terrain especially with the weight of a pack. A few of the 20 somethings really struggled and a couple of them slid down on their bums. I actually found the terrain really fun. With my poles I felt like a skier elegantly popping down moguls. I think the 20 somethings were impressed!

Not long after I passed the 20 somethings I started to feel a bit sad and lonely. A few tears escaped and I wondered what on earth I was doing out here on my own. But once the few tears were out that was over and I felt better. And happy to be able to set my own path and my own pace.

I continued to swap the lead with the 20 somethings throughout the day. We exchanged greetings and encouragement each time. I hope they enjoy their holiday together.

Tonight I rest in Aumont – Aubrac. The prettiest town I’ve been in so far.

Looking back to Saint Albon once I was back on track

Long day to Saint-Alban

Last night I was unable to secure accommodation at the recommended end for the 3rd stage. So I had to walk an extra 12km to get a bed. Long day.

Luckily the walk wasn’t nearly as strenuous as yesterday, but my body was really tired. It started to hurt. My backpack felt heavy. I adjusted it a hundred times. Somehow after my first rest stop and eating a delicious Pain au Raisin that I picked up before leaving Sauges I felt a lot better. My backpack was in a good spot and it felt better. I found my stride and I picked up my pace. The landscape also starting to change from big mountains to rolling green expanses. The scenery is a great distraction.

I made it to today’s recommended overnight stop just after lunch. Strangely I was glad to keep walking. Although the rain clouds did roll in. I could hear the thunder and at times even the rain. But somehow I managed to skirt just around the storm and I didn’t even get a drop.

The last kilometre coming into Saint-Alban was possibly the slowest kilometre I’ve ever walked. But I made it and my post walk beer and dinner were delicious.

The bad news… I have my first blisters on my little toes. The good news, because I walked an extra 12km today, tomorrow’s stage is only 16. I can sleep in.

First Big Stage

Today I arrived in Saugues. I walked 27km, I ascended a total of 805m but I descended 950m. Today was tough but I’m super happy to have gotten through. I am so glad I have my walking poles. Big thank you to Jenny for helping me see the light and ensuring I had these.

While the walking was tough today it was unbelievably rewarding, everywhere I looked there was a picture waiting for a camera. Most of my fellow Pilgrims who I met last night were stopping in Monistrol-d’Allier tonight, I walked another 12km. I worried for most of the day that I’d made a choice that would prove to be a bad one. But, while challenging, the walk was manageable. I did stop in Monistrol-d’Allier for a delicious lunch of salad and coffee. It was a pretty town.

Tonight I am tired again, enjoying a beer (Lucas told me I need carbs!) and dinner and looking forward to a good rest and tomorrow’s challenge.

Looking back to Monistrol-d’Allier after I climbed out of the Valley

I made it…

… through my first day at least. Once I started walking my nerves settled a lot. The scenery is spectacular. Green hills, purple and yellow wild flowers by the side of the road. It’s hard to know which way to look.

I started the day by attending the Pilgrim blessing at the Cathedral in Le Puy. They have a full mass daily, today’s was attended by around 150 people. After the mass there was a blessing for the Pilgrims. We had entered through a side door. At the end of the blessing the Priest gave the instruction for the portal to open. On demand, part of the floor was raised mechanically to reveal the main door to the Cathedral and the first steps of the Camino. We were wished a Bon Chemin and it was time to start.

My biggest fear embarking on this journey was that I would lose my way and get hopelessly lost in countryside France. I’m a lot less scared now. The Way Marking is exceptional. There are signs at most turns, shells marking much of the path and also red and white flags at regular intervals. There are even red and white X’s to show the incorrect path. It’s fantastic!

Many of the towns and villages we pass through don’t even have bakeries or cafes, but they usually have water fountains and toilets for pilgrims. Today I passed through one such town, Liac, where a lady had set up a kiosk selling sandwich’s, drinks and of course coffee to passing pilgrims. She also had a map of the world and she asked me to put in a pin for my home in Australia. There were only 2 pins for Australia. They were in Sydney and Perth, as my birthplace and my most recent home were taken I stuck one in Canberra. I hope my Canberran friends are reading. I enjoyed a small coffee and kept walking.

I am resting tonight in Montbonnet after a manageable first stage to my journey. I am tired but happy and content. Enjoying a local beer in the sunshine. Not a bad first day.