Pyrénées – Tash on The Way

The end of the world and of the blog

I left before the sun was up again this morning and I was straight into the forest. There was a time when I would have been too scared to walk into the dark, not anymore. After a couple of kilometres I was out and onto the road and it started raining. Somehow it felt right that there was some rain on my last day of walking. Luckily I wasn’t on the road for long. I was back on the dirt tracks and very quickly I had my first views to the ocean. But there was still a long way to go.

I had to walk for 13km before I would reach the coast and another 15km to the town of Finistère. As I got closer to the ocean the sky started to clear, the sun came out. Those last 15km were some of the hardest I’ve done. The terrain was easy but I was tired and I felt every step. I was slow.

When I arrived at Finistère I was able to leave my backpack before starting the final hike to the End of the World. Heading up that last hill was joyous. No tears this time. I was happy to be walking along the cliffs and getting so close to the end. The final kilometres were slow, but then, finally, I arrived at that 0km sign.

I have walked across an entire country, traversed the Pyrenees and a good part of France. I cannot believe that I have walked so far and seen and experienced so much. I am proud of what I’ve done and extremely grateful to have had the freedom to go on an adventure.

I am lucky to have crossed paths with the wonderful people who made my adventure so special. I have met many people and made many friends. But Karina, Annie, Donald, Andreas, Antonio, Wouter and Katia shared their strength with me and made sure I’d keep going when I had nothing left. There were turns and trials along the way that led me to each of them. I would not change a single thing.

And now it’s done and so am I. I’ve put down my backpack and unlaced my boots for the final time. It’s time to stop following those yellow arrows, I’ll have to work out where I’m going without them.

Boat Ride!

That’s right, I caught a boat today. I’ll get back to that. I had an early start leaving Irun. The way took me over a bridge and along the river before heading out of the city onto dirt paths and the start of a climb. I looked back onto France and the Pyrenees.

I then walked over rural climbs that lead into the clouds and eventually the heaviest rain I’ve walked in so far. The cloud was heavy at the top of my climb and I missed some coastal views. I then went back down, a long and slippery descent that would lead me to Saia Donibane. From there pilgrims rely on a small pedestrian ferry to move us across the river before we start another big ascent beside coast. It was so fun to be on a boat.

I then headed back down into San Sebastián where I’ll spend the night. One night is not nearly long enough to explore these streets, but I will continue tomorrow. I think I’ll come back one day with some nicer clothes.

By heading north and traversing the Pyrenees I added about 150km to my journey, but that coast has delivered and made the traverse worth it When I left Irun this morning I had 828km to go to Santiago. I’ll get there.

Looking back into France and the Pyrenees

The little boat that ferried me across the river

Holà Spain

I was happy to leave the Pyrenees behind me today. A few hills to get over and then I had my last coffee break in France in a small town called Urrugne. I had a chat to some nice men about where I’d started my Chemin and how long I thought it would take to get to Santiago. It was nice to finish my time in France with such a nice interaction.

After my stop I had to hack my way through an overgrown path for about a kilometre. There were lots of vines and thistles. It was really tough going. Not long after I came across a man who was checking on his goats. He also wanted to chat about my Chemin.

Then I was in Hendaye the French town that borders Spain. I had a quick rest stop and then I was crossing the bridge that took me to Spain. What a novelty to cross into a new country on foot.. Im looking forward to meeting a new pilgrim community tonight and starting a new adventure tomorrow. Au revoir France.

Pyrenees Day 3

Today was the most physically demanding day of my trek through the Pyrenees. Big climbs followed by steep and slippery descents. But as I’ve learned on the Camino, those days are always the most rewarding. I was given wonderful views of the Pyrenees and also my first look to the see and into Spain.

I was also off the roads on pedestrian tracks. The walking is much more pleasant, it’s so much easier on the feet and I didn’t have to worry about dogs as much.

Tomorrow I will arrive in Spain and officially connect to the Camino del Norte. I should also meet a whole new pilgrim community. Tonight I’m in Ascain, a lovely town in Basque Country. I nice place to spend my last night in France.

Day 2 in the Pyrenees

Today started out with more beautiful scenery. I walked along the Nive river for 4kms. Most of the walking is on the road so it’s tough on the feet. I decided rather than pushing to get to Irun in 3 days I’d take my time through the Pyrenees and break the stages into 4.

About 7kms into my walk today I came across more dogs that aren’t behind a fence. This time there were two of them and as they came at me they cut off my path so I had to run back the way I came. I had to decide what to do. Give it another go or backtrack a to almost the start of my day and take another road. After about 10 minutes someone drive by. I decided to flag them down and ask them to take me part the dogs. The very nice man was happy yo help.

I’m resting tonight in Espelette, a small town in Basque Country that’s famous for its dried chillies. I tried a chocolate ice cream earlier that had little bits of through it. It was quite delicious. I do hope there’s no dogs tomorrow.

A few clouds left from last night’s rain

First day in the Pyrenees

I was very nervous leaving St Jean Pied de Port this morning. Over 1000 pilgrims leave St Jean each day bit most take the Camino Frances. I didn’t see any other pilgrims on my path today.

For the first few kilometres I followed the familiar red and white marks along the GR10, but after that the route split and the Voie Nive Bisassoa started. I’ve been following those red and white marks since I left Le Puy, I was sad to say goodbye. The GR10 would also take me to Irun but with exceptionally difficult climbs. Given the weight of my bag and traveling alone I decided to pass on that route. With one exception where I got a little lost the way marking held and I was able to navigate quite well.

I realised that I was exceptionally lucky to be taking this walk through the Pyrenees and that it was a privilege to do so on my own. I did meet some walkers after my lunch break who were going on another path and some people with horses not long after who were heading in the opposite direction.

I can see the hills and mountains all around and I regularly pass streams and rivers at the bottom of the valleys. Tte long days of corn seem like a long time ago.

My path diverging from the GR10 with new way markings

Heading north

After some research and chats with the volunteers in the local pilgrim office I’ve decided I’ll head to the Camino del Norte, the path along Spain’s northern coast. This means I will take the Voie Nive Bidassoa and spend the next 3-4 days skirting over and around the foothills of the Pyrenees to get to Irun, the official starting point of the del Norte. This path is not well documented or well traveled. I’ll have to take each day as it comes and accept that this part is likely to be tougher than the well traveled path through France. I did go and find the first Way Marking today so I know how to get out of town. It was nice to get that out of the way without my back pack.

I’m in pretty good shape. I have 10 toenails and 0 blisters I’ve worn through one pair of sox which I was able to replace here in Saint Jean. My boots are in good condition, my shorts are getting a little loose but they should see me through. I’m nervous about the new adventure tomorrow but also looking forward to moving forward to the next stage.

The new Way Marking I’ll follow tomorrow

Halfway

I haven’t really allowed myself to consider the enormity of the task I’ve set. I focus on the challenge of the day, how far to my next rest stop, when I’ll see the next town. The last few days I’ve struggled to believe that I’ll really be hitting halfway and 750km of walking.

But it hit me when I had 10kms remaining today. I had walked 740km. Wow. As each kilometre ticked by I was overwhelmed by joy. I feel happy and proud of how far I’ve traveled.

The walk today was lovely. Unfortunately the full view of the Pyrenees was hidden by cloud cover, but that gives the scenery a different mystique. It’s meant to be clear tomorrow so I’ll see the mountains then. I’m in Saint Jean Pied de Port, the official end of the via Podiensis and the start of the Camino Frances. I’ll rest tomorrow and decide if I’ll take the French way or if I’ll head north.

Steep ascents, stunning views

Today’s stage had some serious hills. It’s the first time that I’ve had to climb steep hills in a few weeks. I enjoyed the challenge and seeing the rewards. The views were stunning. Unfortunately the Pyrenees were a little hard to see as there was cloud cover for most of the day. But it was hot and sticky so I was grateful for the cloud even if it obscured some of the view.

Today’s stage was one of the 7 French stages that are World Heritage listed. The other stages that make the list are there because of the historic buildings. For this stage it’s the scenery alone.

I am in Herambeltz tonight. Tomorrow’s stage will be my final stage on the Way from Le Puy or the Via Podiensis. I’ll transition to a new route after that.

Arriving in Aroue

I had a restorative night in Navarrenx. I was hesitant to leave this morning. I would have liked to linger and have coffee but I couldn’t stay all day so I got on my way.

Lovely walking this morning, the air was cool and the Pyrenees are now a constant part of the scenery. There’s still corn, but the looking mountains are much nicer to focus on. They represent a big transition in my journey, once I cross them I’ll be in Spain and that feels like a new adventure.

I passed a little river this afternoon so I jumped in for a swim. Ive been hoping to find a nice swimming spot along the way and I’m happy to have found one before I leave France. The water was very cold, I would guess 12-14 degrees, much colder than Manly at the moment. a lovely way to cool off from the afternoon heat.

I’m now in Aroue where I’ll spend the night. I’ll sit and have a drink as I look out at those big mountains.

Looking out to the Pyrenees along the way

I see the Pyrenees

And they are awe inspiring. Clear skies leaving Arthez de Bearn this morning allowed me to look out across the valley and over to the mountains. As I walked out of Athez I headed north, on my left to west I could see the Pyrenees and my walk for the next few days. On my right was what I’ve already covered. I have come along way.

Short day today, only 17km. And tomorrow will be shorter again. I walked quite slowly knowing there was no hurry and no where to be. It was a nice change of pace from the last 3 days. The scenery is changing again. There was still a little bit of corn but for the most part I was on tracks that took me up and down hills and through forests. it’s so much nicer than endless fields of corn. Onward.

Rolling hills with the Pyrenees in the background