I’ve come down with a bit of a cold. So I opted for a short trip today so that I could keep moving but still have the afternoon to rest.
My walk was back along the coastline with some stunning but rugged views of rocky cliffs and a few goats.
The rain rolled in halfway through my walk. It really pelted down but just for a few minutes. It storm added to the beauty of the hard coastline. I’m resting in Islares tonight. A time beachside town.
The shortest walk of my Camino today, only 9km. There was nothing special about the walk itself, it was all about the destination. My first few kilometres were on a footpath but next to a busy road so it was quite noisy. It was also under one of the flight paths to Bilbao which added to the noise.
Eventually I did turn off and climbed a hill, through a forest. There was more rain today so the views were a little spoilt. But I did get a view of Bilbao as I entered and it is a lovely city. I stopped past the church and for my second breakfast in the town square. This afternoon I will go and see the Guggenheim and enjoy some local cuisine. I do like these shorter days.
I left early today. I didn’t have a room booked so I wanted to make an early start to ensure I’d get a room at one of the places that don’t take reservations. The rain started early too, but again I won’t complain.
My walk started with a quick uphill but then it wasn’t long before I was descending down again to a river. The track felt like it could be in Australia, it was lined with eucalyptus and there were many fallen leaves. The rain did make things quite slippery so I had to be careful as I walked.
Tonight I am wondering where are all the pilgrims. There were over 50 people my first night in Spain, but tonight we’ve thinned to only 10. I guess others have taken different paces,some quicker and some slower. Maybe the rain has put a few off too. Tonight I’m in the small town of Lezama. I’ll hit Bilbao tomorrow.
When I started walking today a light mist was already falling and I actually felt cold. I feel lucky to be escaping the heat of the south so I won’t complain about the rain or the cooler weather.
My walk today was along the river and then through the rain forest. The views and my photos aren’t as spectacular as the previous days, but the walking was very peaceful.
I paused at a monastery for my morning coffee. There was a group of pilgrims there staying out if the rain. We all had a shorter day so none of us were in a hurry to move on. But of course eventually we had to. I’m in Monday’s tonight.
The day started with rain. And as the morning progressed it got heavier. Things were quite bleak actually. My boots that had got me through all those puddles started to let the rain in and my sox got really wet. I was trudging through 15km without any significant landmarks to distract me. The rain did clear late morning. And when I stopped for lunch I changed my saturated sox and things did get better.
But there wasn’t much along the way today to entertain me, not even a coffee or a bakery. At one stage I was walking for 4.5km with corn on either side of me and I couldn’t see above. For much of today I considered how I’m going to stay motivated for the rest of my walk. I’m yet to find the answer.
I’ve now been walking for 4 weeks. I’m feeling exceptionally strong and I can walk a 28km day as I did today and feel quite ok at the end of it. It’s a great to feel this fit and strong. Still a very long way to go…
Rain today. After the heat of the last 2 days I appreciated the cooler air. And I’m getting good at pulling out my poncho. Today was also the first stage that my guide book used the lowest category of ‘easy’. The terrain was definitely flatter and easier on the legs.
I walked for 28km, I passed through 4 villages but only one of them had a shop. None had cafes, boulangeries or bars. This will become more common over the coming stages.
My new friend Donald just said, ‘we always start in a hole’. It’s true. Most of the towns we stay in are down in a valley so we have to climb up out of the hole at the start of the day. But tonight is an exception. I’m sleeping up on a hill in a tiny place called Le Pech. So for once, my day tomorrow will start with a downhill walk.
Today started with market day in Almand-Albrac. The produce was exceptional. I would have loved to buy the asparagus to cook. I had to settle for apples and oranges for trail snacks instead. Today’s stage would lead me through the Albrac region, I was told to expect one of the most scenic days of my time in France. It delivered.
Today was one of two stages with the possibility for year round snow. Luckily there wasn’t any snow but there was rain. There was also spring in all its glory. When the rain started many of my fellow pilgrims got their rain gear out. I resisted for some time. The rain was a light mist, nothing compared to a Sydney storm. Eventually I pulled out my poncho.
The mist fell, but it still felt like spring. There were flowers on either side of me throughout the walk. Yellow, white, purple and pink were scattered through the green. Birds were singing, happy cows were mooing. It was delightful. I was constantly aware that I would likely never walk this path again and I wanted to remember it.
The rain did kick in after my lunch break. With 3.2km to go I stopped and I was getting tired. Magically, my new friends from Montreal, Karina and Annie appeared. We met on the path to Saint Albain and have been meeting at regular intervals ever since. We were all resting in Nasibals tonight and they suggested we walk the remaining distance together and enjoy a wine before going to our accommodation. The last few kilometres is always tough. Karina and Annie were my Peloton for the remaining kilometres. Their momentum carried me. When we arrived in Nadibals we enjoyed some Rose together before heading to our rooms. It was my favourite afternoon of the Camino so far.
Tash on The Way 