Santiago – Tash on The Way

The end of the world and of the blog

I left before the sun was up again this morning and I was straight into the forest. There was a time when I would have been too scared to walk into the dark, not anymore. After a couple of kilometres I was out and onto the road and it started raining. Somehow it felt right that there was some rain on my last day of walking. Luckily I wasn’t on the road for long. I was back on the dirt tracks and very quickly I had my first views to the ocean. But there was still a long way to go.

I had to walk for 13km before I would reach the coast and another 15km to the town of Finistère. As I got closer to the ocean the sky started to clear, the sun came out. Those last 15km were some of the hardest I’ve done. The terrain was easy but I was tired and I felt every step. I was slow.

When I arrived at Finistère I was able to leave my backpack before starting the final hike to the End of the World. Heading up that last hill was joyous. No tears this time. I was happy to be walking along the cliffs and getting so close to the end. The final kilometres were slow, but then, finally, I arrived at that 0km sign.

I have walked across an entire country, traversed the Pyrenees and a good part of France. I cannot believe that I have walked so far and seen and experienced so much. I am proud of what I’ve done and extremely grateful to have had the freedom to go on an adventure.

I am lucky to have crossed paths with the wonderful people who made my adventure so special. I have met many people and made many friends. But Karina, Annie, Donald, Andreas, Antonio, Wouter and Katia shared their strength with me and made sure I’d keep going when I had nothing left. There were turns and trials along the way that led me to each of them. I would not change a single thing.

And now it’s done and so am I. I’ve put down my backpack and unlaced my boots for the final time. It’s time to stop following those yellow arrows, I’ll have to work out where I’m going without them.

Back on the way

It was a hot one today. I started walking well before first light to make the most of the cooler temperatures. Santiago felt very different in the early hours of the morning without the buzz of the tourists. Once I was out of the city I entered a very dark forest. I entered slowly and waited for my eyes to adjust. I could just make out the yellow arrows which continue to guide me along my way. I

It wasn’t long before I was out of the forest or until the sun came up. But I did struggle in the first 5km. The emotion of the last few days was weighing me down and I was missing the Primitivo crew. But after second breakfast and a few lovely messages from home I found my stride again. There were many pilgrims on the way, most with shiny new shoes and fresh bright sox.

I arrived in Negreira just after noon and before the intense afternoon heat had set in. Tomorrow will also be hot so I’ll have another short day

The highs and lows of Santiago and continuing to the coast

Yesterday was a day of emotion. Before setting out for the final stage those of us who had walked the Primitivo met for coffee. The group would form and reform throughout the day but we rejoined for second breakfast after 5km, again at the top of the hill in Monte de Gozo where we got out first views of Santiago and of course in front of the cathedral where we finally set down our backpacks. It was a moment of pure joy and celebration.

I was so lucky to share the final kilometres of my journey with such a wonderful group of people. Katia, Antonio and Wouter have carried me through the last few days, it has been so much easier having them walk alongside me. I am lucky and grateful to have taken the turns in the road that led me to them. I wouldn’t change anything. There are so many others who walked with me through my long journey, too many to name here. They all know who they are and how special walking with them has been. I have also received many messages of congratulations from home, I’m still in the process of replying to many of these but I have read them all.

I have rested today, and after much consideration I have decided I will continue my walk tomorrow. There is 90km to the western coast, a place called Finistère which they call the end of the world. At this point another 90km doesn’t seem that far. It’s going to be hot this week so I’ll take it slowly and aim to cover the distance in 4 days. I’ll continue my blog while I continue my walk.

Finally an anticlimax today. I went to the pilgrim office to receive my Compostela the certificate all pilgrims who walk the minimum 100km receive for completing the Camino Santiago. There is also an option to request an additional certificate which states your starting location, the route you took and the distance walked. Unfortunately as I walked a path less traveled the pilgrim office was not prepared to recognise the full distance I walked and instead would only recognise the distance of the Camino Frances, about 100km less than I traveled. While the number is not important at this point, and of course neither is the paper it was still a little heartbreaking that the distance wouldn’t be recognised. I decided to leave the additional certificate. I know how far I’ve walked and the paths I’ve taken.