Todays walk started with 50 steps up out of town. And then I was into the morning light and moving along the cliffs with views of the beaches and cliffs. This continued for 3-4km before I transitioned into the highway. Walking along the highway is my least favourite part of the Camino. Luckily for the most part there was a decent shoulder and the Spanish drivers slowed down when they approached.
I had my second breakfast in the small town of Miono. From there the way followed a pedestrian tunnel that led to Castro-Urdiales where I’m staying tonight. I’ll be taking a well deserved rest day tomorrow. My first since I’ve been in Spain.
Morning lightCoastal walkCliffs First views of Castro UrdialesInto the tunnel
The Way out of Bilbao is thought to be one of the most uninteresting stages of the Camino del Norte. For this reason many of my fellow pilgrims chose to take the train through this stage and I was even encouraged to do the same. I was reminded of a movie where the main character who’s bored by the demands of his life is offered a magic remote control that allows him to fast forward the bits he doesn’t like. In time the consequences of the fast forwarding are revealed to be dire. The moral of the story, the boring bits are those where you learn and grow and you’ll look back on them fondly.
While I doubt there’d have been dire consequences if I had chosen to fast forward, I’m happy I continued with the walk. Out of Bilbao I walked along a canal through an industrial area. I went past the bus depot and the garbage truck depot, furniture stores and petrol stages. The parts of life that are often kept out of sight. But I also found a great coffee. And when Bilbao was behind me there were rowers on the canal and the lead up to Portugalete was spectacular.
I then got to enjoy the best bit of the day. a cable car that’s used to ferry passengers, cars and pilgrims across the river! It was quite a ride. There was then another surprise, a Hong Kong style escalator through the town to take you up the hill. The hill wasn’t that steep and the escalator was rather slow, but after walking for so long I was rather happy with the ride.
For much of the rest of the day I walked along purpose built pedestrian/cycle paths that went over large highways. Not spectacular, but there were more Buen Caminos from the cyclists than I’ve had over my entire time in Spain. Eventually I arrived back at the coast and my final kilometre was on a boardwalk along the beach. I’m now resting in Pobena, next to the beach and rather pleased to have completed todays stage.
Along the canal First views of PortugaleteThe cable ferry across the bridge Board walk across the beach
I left Zarautz via a long coastal walk. Once again I was walking alongside the locals out for their morning exercise. After passing through Getaria it was time to head uphill again before I went back down to Zumaia where I stopped for coffee at 10am. I sat amongst the locals, many of whom were already drinking their first glass of wine.
When I left one of the locals talked to me and gestured about the hills. Yes, I’ve climbed lots of hills I thought. I think what he meant though was you are about to climb up out of our town. And yes, it was quite a climb. But that was nothing compared to the steep descent heading into Deba this afternoon. It was steep and slippery and it went for about 3km. I was very happy to be finished walking for the day.
Coastal walk out of Zarautz Morning light The coastal countryside
Leaving San Sebastián today it felt a lot like an early morning in manly. The swimmers surfers and runners were all up, there was even some yoga on the beach. I had a quick sharp climb after leaving the beach and then i was up above the cliffs. It levelled out and I stayed up high with sweeping views of the coast for about 10km before a steep descent.
After the descent there was a little stop for pilgrims. A lady and her family put out tea and coffee and cake (it was delicious) so pilgrims can have a rest. It was exceptionally kind. I then came to Orio, a little fishing port that had their food and wine fair. It felt like everyone in the town was out celebrating.
Tonight I’ve stopped in Zaurautz, another pretty beach town. I’m enjoying the Spanish tapas as a replacement to the rich French dinners. The wine has been good too.
Early morning light over San Sebastián Spanish countryside First view of Zarautz
Tash on The Way 