sunflowers – Tash on The Way

Time for a rant

If you’re hoping to get an update on the cornfields and the sunflowers you might need to skip today’s post. The last few days have been long and tough and there hasn’t been much happening. Today I walked 30km through 4 little towns that didn’t have cafes or bars. There were a few picnic tables to stop at but not much else. The pilgrims are also a lot fewer in numbers today I counted 6 on the trail. But of there are other people in the Gîtes, but many are catching taxis or buses between the stops.

I have no idea why they do this. It’s possible to break the stages into smaller sections to make them shorter to ease the waking. But I’m not sure why you’d travel through this part of France, it’s not the part to see. My first two weeks, they were spectacular and worth seeing via transport. There are many reasons why people take the transport option, the heat, the rain, the distance. But really the only reason to be here as a visitor is if you’re walking. The motor transport seems to defeat the purpose. I obviously need to let go, let everyone walk their own way and focus on my own walk. Everyone will take the way as they choose to. And I’m making my own choice to walk.

I also had a few run ins with dogs today. There were quite a few agressive dogs barking behind fences, close to the track today. This happens often but particularly prevalent today. Karina and Annie left me with a dog spray that can be used to stop a dog from seeing and remove their smell for 30mins without hurting them. Today a dog that wasn’t behind a fence came running at me, barking and snapping and I didn’t even have time to get the spray out. I started running and the dog gave me a few head butts in the leg but luckily no bites. It then retreated quickly. I was ok but really frightened. I walked quite slowly and steadily after that.

Glad to have arrived in Arthez de Bearn tonight. There were some sunflowers and corn today. Rant is over now and I’ll get back to the scenery tomorrow.

Walking around a lake after leaving Arzaqu this morning

I will walk 500km

Done. I arrived in the protection of Condom today. (sadly there’s no local humour about the name of this town) With that I am safely 1/3 of the way through my journey.

Today started with another diversion, after about 1km I was sent off the track and onto a big road. It wasn’t as bad as yesterday though, a major road but not a highway, and there was a somewhat spacious shoulder. However after 2 km the diversion ended and I was back on the way and feeling much happier.

The day was nice after that. Lots of sunflowers, nice Roman towns to stop for coffee and lunch. Lots of countryside. A big fat, so it was tough but my legs are adjusting to the distances.

And my Gîte tonight has a pool so I had my second swim in two days. Awesome.

A small lake I walked around this afternoon

Walking on the road

Today started with more sunflowers. I passed fields where they were nearly completely in bloom. Lovely.

It continues to surprise that I haven’t gotten completely lost in rural France. Then today, somewhere after about 2 kilometres of walking I missed a marker and I ended up walking off route with no way markings. When I realised I was off track I checked google and realised the road I was on was heading for the town I wanted so I was ok. It only added about a kilometre to my trip. And it shows that even when I get lost il always close to somewhere. I was even passed by a taxi at one stage. However walking on the big roads is fairly unpleasant. Especially when cars pass at speed.

Not long after getting back on track the way was blocked by signs saying that the route was impassable and we had to walk along the highway. There was a plus side to this that the highway is a more direct route, however walking along the highway was frightening. There were trucks and cars going at high speeds. And the shoulder was often thin or just not there at all. Usually the traffic would give as much space as possible and often even an encouraging toot. But there were other times when there was no or little space and at one stage I crossed a safety barrier to get clear of a line of big trucks. There were a few tears at this point. If the way is closed tomorrow will definitely jump in taxis or bus.

Not my favourite day on the trail, but in a happy ending the town where I’m staying, Lectoure has a thermal hot spring so I headed there for the afternoon. I’m now enjoying a local sorbet before dinner. Onward.

Sunflowers looking to the early morning sun

Sunflowers on the way

Short day today. I’m slowing down a bit while the temperatures are high. The heat is so draining. But there is a flip side to heat, the sunflowers are blooming. They are like big sunny faces looking up at me. Hopefully the numbers in bloom continues to grow over the coming days.

I passed through three tiny French villages today. One offered a great coffee and the others nice shady spots to sit after filling my water bottle.

The way continues to be blocked by fallen trees. There are now signs posted indicating there’s debris on the track all the way to Condom where I plan to arrive on Wednesday. They seem to be removing debris slowly but it’s taking time. Some of those towns I passed through have been without internet since Thursday.

Looking back to Flamerens where I stopped for lunch

Approaching Miradoux where I slept tonight.