The Lot River – Tash on The Way

Up and out of Cahors

Today’s climb out of Cahors was my last big climb before I get to the Pyrénées . I’ve noticed that I’m a lot stronger on the hills now and I can power up those climbs. Hopefully I still have that strength when I hit the big hills of the Pyrénées. But I’m also getting quite tired. The effort across multiple days is starting to build. I generally feel pretty good once I’m out walking though.

Leaving Cahors I also said goodbye to The Lot, the river I’ve been circling around for the last week now. From here things will start to change again. I’ll move from seeing the cows of the Aubrac region and into fields of sunflowers and corn. I passed my first sunflower field today but sadly they were yet to bloom. Hopefully there’ll be some more down the road.

Me on the bridge, trying not to let the rain or the big hill worry me

Quick trip to Cahors

A 14km walk today, the shortest day of my Camino so far. And mostly off the road so it felt like a holiday for my feet. More rain, and once again, compared to the heat of last week it was welcome.

Today I walked the whole stage with Karina and Annie. It was nice to chat as we went. When we could see Cahors Annie demanded that we stop and declared that Cahors is the half way point to Saint John de Pied, the point before the Spanish border and the end of the French Chemin. Saint John de Pied will be my half way point, and so I am one quarter of the way through my walk.

Rain

Rain today. After the heat of the last 2 days I appreciated the cooler air. And I’m getting good at pulling out my poncho. Today was also the first stage that my guide book used the lowest category of ‘easy’. The terrain was definitely flatter and easier on the legs.

I walked for 28km, I passed through 4 villages but only one of them had a shop. None had cafes, boulangeries or bars. This will become more common over the coming stages.

My new friend Donald just said, ‘we always start in a hole’. It’s true. Most of the towns we stay in are down in a valley so we have to climb up out of the hole at the start of the day. But tonight is an exception. I’m sleeping up on a hill in a tiny place called Le Pech. So for once, my day tomorrow will start with a downhill walk.

Light forest in either side of the track in the morning.

Opening out into scrub, the scenery keeps changing

Leaving Cajarc

Leaving Cajarc this morning was stunning. The town was having a Sunday sleep in so everything was quiet. I left the town and walked along the The Lot river for some time before climbing up out of the valley. It was going to be another warm day but cool morning air lingered for a bit longer today sling with a cool breeze. The scenery was stunning. I was really tired after yesterday so I took the morning super slow and stopped for quite a few breaks and took lots of pictures.

This part of the Chemin is a lot less popular with the French walkers so the Way Marking isn’t as clear. I need to pay more attention and sometimes at crossroads I have to stop and find the markings. They’re still there, I just have to look a bit harder.

I have now passed the 300km mark. Soles of the feet are hurting quite a bit, especially on the roads. And I have a new blister on my heal. Other than that I’m doing quite well.

Leaving the Lot

Leaving Estaing today I weaved along The Lot river walking along the road through the forest. My ascent was 300m taking me up to an altitude of 600m, not that high compared to the climbs of my initial days on the trail. But the hill was steep and for the first I wondered why on earth I’m walking between towns when I could be enjoying a coffee and then jumping in a cab to my destination. I’m sure this won’t be the last time I have this thought.

The hill kept going. Even when I was sure I was at the top there was more to climb. When eventually I did hit the top the descent started straight away. It was hard on the legs and once again I was very happy to have my waking poles.

Despite the tough hills there are other moments that are breathtaking. The scenery continues to change and reward. And the walking is very peaceful.

P.S. My blisters seem to have healed. Very relieved. Feet are in good shape!

Google says…

That my walk will take 2.5 hours today. What?? I was checking the location of my hotel before I left this morning and yep, if I walked along the roads my 6.5 hour day would have been much shorter. Why on earth am I walking up all these hills?

While I was walking a guy pulled over in his car and wanted to talk to me. In Australia this might have felt really threatening, but here it was ok. He asked if I was going all the way to Santiago and he told me I was crazy, ‘Haven’t you heard of a plane?’, he said gesturing a plane taking off. We both laughed and went on our seperate ways.

As I left Saint Come today I walked over the Lot river. It was swollen from the rain of the past few days and there was mist all around. My path today would take me up and through 2 other towns along the river. Once I left Saint Come I climbed up over the hill through the mist. It was hard going but lovely to be in the mist and the thick green forest. At first when I got to the top I thought I was going to miss the view due to the mist. Luckily the mist broke and I saw the stunning valleys below.

Why am I walking up all these hills? Many reasons. I am enjoying the challenge of the steep inclines, and I love looking back and seeing where I’ve been. Today I also had the privilege of descending down into Espalion and Estaing. It was breathtaking.

Looking back to Saint Come after crossing The Lot River