The Way – Page 3 – Tash on The Way

Bridge crossings

Long day on the road today. It started with some lovely views of the beach and then I started to move inland to rolling hills. It was pretty but oh my feet hurt straight away. It’s just too much on the road.

As I approached San Vincent early afternoon the road got really busy and there was virtually no shoulder to walk on. It was again very scary every time a car went passed. I could see the busy bridge that would take me into the town and I decided that I was done with taking on the cars, if there was no pedestrian path along that bridge I was going to sit down and quit. No more walking, I’d find a bus and plane back to London.

As I got closer I could many pedestrians jauntily walking across the bridge. Today would not be the day that I would quit the Camino. I rest tonight in Unquera after 37km.

The view from the bridge I almost didn’t cross

New friends

My first kilometre this morning was on a dirt path that was overgrown with moss, a soft squishy delight for my tired feet. After that I wove through sleepy towns for a few kilometres. Then I was onto a asphalt pathway beside a highway.

I soon came across another pilgrim, I could see his feet were also tired because like me he was trying to walk in the white line separating us from the highway. The line provided enough sponginess to make the effort of trying to walk on the line worthwhile. I eventually passed him when stopped to adjust his backpack and he passed me when I stopped to grab some snacks.

In Santillana I stopped for second breakfast and the sand pilgrim was there. He said hello and asked me to join him and said he recognised me from the way. I thought he meant when we passed today. But actually he had recognised me from places in France. He had also started in Le Puy and it turns out we started walking on the same day. He also navigated the Voie Nive Bidassoa, and like me he didn’t see another pilgrim the whole walk. We said goodbye after our coffee, I kept going and he went to the tourist office to find a stamp. I wonder if I’ll see him again.

Not long after I ran into Edward and his dog Bindy who I met in Guemes, we walked together for a few kilometres before he went to explore one of the beaches. Then Laslo joined me for a bit. He’s been walking with a friend and I’d seen them a few times on the trail. Unfortunately his friend hurt his knee and had left the way. We walked together all the way to Playa du Luana where I stay tonight. He kept walking. My feet don’t hurt nearly as much today.

Fast Forward

Again today many of my fellow pilgrims decided to press the fast forward button and took transport through the stage. The way was off the coast and through urban areas and was deemed to be boring. You’ll see from the photos it was not the most beautiful day of my walk. But it also wasn’t terrible. The rain clouds kept the sky interesting.

There were also some nice surprises along the way. I found some lovely coffee stops with warm hosts and welcoming locals to chat to. One of the towns also had a mural of the Camino del Norte painted by the street.

I was pleased to still see some pilgrims on the road. I counted 8 including one who had only started his Camino today. My feet are hurting a lot at the moment. I think my jours have lost all the sponginess from the base and walking on the road is really tough. A few days ago I was thinking I had finally gotten used to it but apparently not. I am hoping for more dirt tracks soon.

Cliffs and corn

I felt well rested this morning and I was looking forward to a shorter walk along the coast. The light was lovely when I took off. Unfortunately the day started walking along a fairly big road with a very thin shoulder. Luckily as I walked early there wasn’t much traffic. It also didn’t last for long, only 4km to Galizano where I took my second breakfast. I arrived slightly before 9am and before the bar had actually opened. The local men where also arriving waiting for coffee to go with their catch up.

From there I was headed for the coast again. a short stroll to the cliffs and then I was walking high around the surf beach. Eventually I would come to a place where I was walking right between my old friend a field of corn and tte ocean cliff. This was far more spectacular than the days of corn I passed in France.

Once I was around the cliffs I was down and onto the sand for about 5km. That was a hot walk but it ended with what I believe to be the final boat ride of my Camino. A large passenger ferry that took me from Somo to Santander where I finished walking today. As I finished early I treated myself to Paella for lunch and an afternoon nap.

Corn fields next to the cliffs and across to Santander

Boat Ride 2

Today started so nicely. A 5km stroll along Laredo beach followed by a ferry trip across to Santona where I took second breakfast. Then I was beach hopping for the next 10kms. It was lovely and the views were some of the best I’ve seen.

Then I got really tired. Maybe I hadn’t had enough food, maybe I’m still recovering from the cold, but after that the walking was hard. I had a long 15km remaining until I got to the end of my day. It was slow going. Luckily I ran into some other pilgrims who were resting on a bridge and in a similar state of tiredness. We all walked the last 7kms together. I’m happy to be in Guemes tonight. Hoping for a good rest and more energy tomorrow.

Day 51

I missed a big milestone yesterday passing 50 days on the way. To keep me guessing there was a bit of fun with the distance markings today. After I’d been walking for a few kilometres there was a distance marker to Laredo where i would stop tonight. 22kms. Ok.

I walked a few more kms, there was another marker to Laredo…25kms. What??? I was not happy. I kept walking, I’m not sure how far. Then I started up a hill. Not a particularly big hill, not even particularly steep. But i was annoyed and the hill made everything worse. I decided that it was very unreasonable to have this hill right here. Obviously this made me feel even worse and made the climb even harder. About half way up there was another distance marker – 17km. At that point I’d stop keeping track and was unsure how far I’d walked since the last marker, but it wasn’t more than a few kms.

Eventually I started heading down hill, and I looked up and around and realised that everything around me was completely different from the scenery I’d seen so far in Spain. I also realised that I hadn’t seen a way marker for some time. And this time I started to get worried. Was I on the wrong track? But not long after I saw a familiar yellow arrow, and suddenly there were other pilgrims in front and coming behind me.

I was also about to arrive in Liendo where I had my coffee break. There were more hills after Liendo but these were much more agreeable, and they delivered magical coastal views that continued for the remainder of my walk. When I finally arrived in Laredo my Garmin had clocked 20km.

Rugged Coast

I’ve come down with a bit of a cold. So I opted for a short trip today so that I could keep moving but still have the afternoon to rest.

My walk was back along the coastline with some stunning but rugged views of rocky cliffs and a few goats.

The rain rolled in halfway through my walk. It really pelted down but just for a few minutes. It storm added to the beauty of the hard coastline. I’m resting in Islares tonight. A time beachside town.

Rest Day

Another day in the pretty town of Castro-Urdiales. I ran into a few other pilgrims who also took the opportunity for a rest today. I’ll get back on my way tomorrow.

Along the coast

Todays walk started with 50 steps up out of town. And then I was into the morning light and moving along the cliffs with views of the beaches and cliffs. This continued for 3-4km before I transitioned into the highway. Walking along the highway is my least favourite part of the Camino. Luckily for the most part there was a decent shoulder and the Spanish drivers slowed down when they approached.

I had my second breakfast in the small town of Miono. From there the way followed a pedestrian tunnel that led to Castro-Urdiales where I’m staying tonight. I’ll be taking a well deserved rest day tomorrow. My first since I’ve been in Spain.

Canals and Cable Cars

The Way out of Bilbao is thought to be one of the most uninteresting stages of the Camino del Norte. For this reason many of my fellow pilgrims chose to take the train through this stage and I was even encouraged to do the same. I was reminded of a movie where the main character who’s bored by the demands of his life is offered a magic remote control that allows him to fast forward the bits he doesn’t like. In time the consequences of the fast forwarding are revealed to be dire. The moral of the story, the boring bits are those where you learn and grow and you’ll look back on them fondly.

While I doubt there’d have been dire consequences if I had chosen to fast forward, I’m happy I continued with the walk. Out of Bilbao I walked along a canal through an industrial area. I went past the bus depot and the garbage truck depot, furniture stores and petrol stages. The parts of life that are often kept out of sight. But I also found a great coffee. And when Bilbao was behind me there were rowers on the canal and the lead up to Portugalete was spectacular.

I then got to enjoy the best bit of the day. a cable car that’s used to ferry passengers, cars and pilgrims across the river! It was quite a ride. There was then another surprise, a Hong Kong style escalator through the town to take you up the hill. The hill wasn’t that steep and the escalator was rather slow, but after walking for so long I was rather happy with the ride.

For much of the rest of the day I walked along purpose built pedestrian/cycle paths that went over large highways. Not spectacular, but there were more Buen Caminos from the cyclists than I’ve had over my entire time in Spain. Eventually I arrived back at the coast and my final kilometre was on a boardwalk along the beach. I’m now resting in Pobena, next to the beach and rather pleased to have completed todays stage.

Destination Bilbao

The shortest walk of my Camino today, only 9km. There was nothing special about the walk itself, it was all about the destination. My first few kilometres were on a footpath but next to a busy road so it was quite noisy. It was also under one of the flight paths to Bilbao which added to the noise.

Eventually I did turn off and climbed a hill, through a forest. There was more rain today so the views were a little spoilt. But I did get a view of Bilbao as I entered and it is a lovely city. I stopped past the church and for my second breakfast in the town square. This afternoon I will go and see the Guggenheim and enjoy some local cuisine. I do like these shorter days.