The Way – Page 4 – Tash on The Way

Forests and Streams

I left early today. I didn’t have a room booked so I wanted to make an early start to ensure I’d get a room at one of the places that don’t take reservations. The rain started early too, but again I won’t complain.

My walk started with a quick uphill but then it wasn’t long before I was descending down again to a river. The track felt like it could be in Australia, it was lined with eucalyptus and there were many fallen leaves. The rain did make things quite slippery so I had to be careful as I walked.

Tonight I am wondering where are all the pilgrims. There were over 50 people my first night in Spain, but tonight we’ve thinned to only 10. I guess others have taken different paces,some quicker and some slower. Maybe the rain has put a few off too. Tonight I’m in the small town of Lezama. I’ll hit Bilbao tomorrow.

Into the forest

When I started walking today a light mist was already falling and I actually felt cold. I feel lucky to be escaping the heat of the south so I won’t complain about the rain or the cooler weather.

My walk today was along the river and then through the rain forest. The views and my photos aren’t as spectacular as the previous days, but the walking was very peaceful.

I paused at a monastery for my morning coffee. There was a group of pilgrims there staying out if the rain. We all had a shorter day so none of us were in a hurry to move on. But of course eventually we had to. I’m in Monday’s tonight.

Adios Coast

Today I said goodbye to the coast for a few days. I’ve been enjoying the first views but I also love how the scenery continues to change on the Camino.

The uphill started as soon as I left town this morning. Some test today was the toughest of the Camino del Norte, I guess I’ll get to see. The climb was long and strenuous but I was constantly looking back at the views out to the coast. They continued to be spectacular. Despite the steep and strenuous climb it was lovely walking, everyone I spoke to shared my feeling that it was one of the nicest walks we’ve done so far.

A few people have asked me about the temperature and if I’m experiencing any of the heatwave that is engulfing so much of Spain. Luckily the high today was 28 degrees and the forecast for the rest of the week is for mid to low 20s. Apparently those further south walking the Camino Frances are experiencing the extreme weather. I am very happy that I sorted this route.

tonight I rest in Markina, a small Basque village. After dinner tonight I was walking back and a lady chased me asking if I was Australian. She was from Townsville. I always love the close affinity experienced with other Australians in Europe. I guess we all feel a long way from home.

Morning stroll

I left Zarautz via a long coastal walk. Once again I was walking alongside the locals out for their morning exercise. After passing through Getaria it was time to head uphill again before I went back down to Zumaia where I stopped for coffee at 10am. I sat amongst the locals, many of whom were already drinking their first glass of wine.

When I left one of the locals talked to me and gestured about the hills. Yes, I’ve climbed lots of hills I thought. I think what he meant though was you are about to climb up out of our town. And yes, it was quite a climb. But that was nothing compared to the steep descent heading into Deba this afternoon. It was steep and slippery and it went for about 3km. I was very happy to be finished walking for the day.

Walking along the cliffs

Leaving San Sebastián today it felt a lot like an early morning in manly. The swimmers surfers and runners were all up, there was even some yoga on the beach. I had a quick sharp climb after leaving the beach and then i was up above the cliffs. It levelled out and I stayed up high with sweeping views of the coast for about 10km before a steep descent.

After the descent there was a little stop for pilgrims. A lady and her family put out tea and coffee and cake (it was delicious) so pilgrims can have a rest. It was exceptionally kind. I then came to Orio, a little fishing port that had their food and wine fair. It felt like everyone in the town was out celebrating.

Tonight I’ve stopped in Zaurautz, another pretty beach town. I’m enjoying the Spanish tapas as a replacement to the rich French dinners. The wine has been good too.

Boat Ride!

That’s right, I caught a boat today. I’ll get back to that. I had an early start leaving Irun. The way took me over a bridge and along the river before heading out of the city onto dirt paths and the start of a climb. I looked back onto France and the Pyrenees.

I then walked over rural climbs that lead into the clouds and eventually the heaviest rain I’ve walked in so far. The cloud was heavy at the top of my climb and I missed some coastal views. I then went back down, a long and slippery descent that would lead me to Saia Donibane. From there pilgrims rely on a small pedestrian ferry to move us across the river before we start another big ascent beside coast. It was so fun to be on a boat.

I then headed back down into San Sebastián where I’ll spend the night. One night is not nearly long enough to explore these streets, but I will continue tomorrow. I think I’ll come back one day with some nicer clothes.

By heading north and traversing the Pyrenees I added about 150km to my journey, but that coast has delivered and made the traverse worth it When I left Irun this morning I had 828km to go to Santiago. I’ll get there.

Looking back into France and the Pyrenees

The little boat that ferried me across the river

Holà Spain

I was happy to leave the Pyrenees behind me today. A few hills to get over and then I had my last coffee break in France in a small town called Urrugne. I had a chat to some nice men about where I’d started my Chemin and how long I thought it would take to get to Santiago. It was nice to finish my time in France with such a nice interaction.

After my stop I had to hack my way through an overgrown path for about a kilometre. There were lots of vines and thistles. It was really tough going. Not long after I came across a man who was checking on his goats. He also wanted to chat about my Chemin.

Then I was in Hendaye the French town that borders Spain. I had a quick rest stop and then I was crossing the bridge that took me to Spain. What a novelty to cross into a new country on foot.. Im looking forward to meeting a new pilgrim community tonight and starting a new adventure tomorrow. Au revoir France.

Pyrenees Day 3

Today was the most physically demanding day of my trek through the Pyrenees. Big climbs followed by steep and slippery descents. But as I’ve learned on the Camino, those days are always the most rewarding. I was given wonderful views of the Pyrenees and also my first look to the see and into Spain.

I was also off the roads on pedestrian tracks. The walking is much more pleasant, it’s so much easier on the feet and I didn’t have to worry about dogs as much.

Tomorrow I will arrive in Spain and officially connect to the Camino del Norte. I should also meet a whole new pilgrim community. Tonight I’m in Ascain, a lovely town in Basque Country. I nice place to spend my last night in France.

Day 2 in the Pyrenees

Today started out with more beautiful scenery. I walked along the Nive river for 4kms. Most of the walking is on the road so it’s tough on the feet. I decided rather than pushing to get to Irun in 3 days I’d take my time through the Pyrenees and break the stages into 4.

About 7kms into my walk today I came across more dogs that aren’t behind a fence. This time there were two of them and as they came at me they cut off my path so I had to run back the way I came. I had to decide what to do. Give it another go or backtrack a to almost the start of my day and take another road. After about 10 minutes someone drive by. I decided to flag them down and ask them to take me part the dogs. The very nice man was happy yo help.

I’m resting tonight in Espelette, a small town in Basque Country that’s famous for its dried chillies. I tried a chocolate ice cream earlier that had little bits of through it. It was quite delicious. I do hope there’s no dogs tomorrow.

A few clouds left from last night’s rain

First day in the Pyrenees

I was very nervous leaving St Jean Pied de Port this morning. Over 1000 pilgrims leave St Jean each day bit most take the Camino Frances. I didn’t see any other pilgrims on my path today.

For the first few kilometres I followed the familiar red and white marks along the GR10, but after that the route split and the Voie Nive Bisassoa started. I’ve been following those red and white marks since I left Le Puy, I was sad to say goodbye. The GR10 would also take me to Irun but with exceptionally difficult climbs. Given the weight of my bag and traveling alone I decided to pass on that route. With one exception where I got a little lost the way marking held and I was able to navigate quite well.

I realised that I was exceptionally lucky to be taking this walk through the Pyrenees and that it was a privilege to do so on my own. I did meet some walkers after my lunch break who were going on another path and some people with horses not long after who were heading in the opposite direction.

I can see the hills and mountains all around and I regularly pass streams and rivers at the bottom of the valleys. Tte long days of corn seem like a long time ago.

My path diverging from the GR10 with new way markings

Heading north

After some research and chats with the volunteers in the local pilgrim office I’ve decided I’ll head to the Camino del Norte, the path along Spain’s northern coast. This means I will take the Voie Nive Bidassoa and spend the next 3-4 days skirting over and around the foothills of the Pyrenees to get to Irun, the official starting point of the del Norte. This path is not well documented or well traveled. I’ll have to take each day as it comes and accept that this part is likely to be tougher than the well traveled path through France. I did go and find the first Way Marking today so I know how to get out of town. It was nice to get that out of the way without my back pack.

I’m in pretty good shape. I have 10 toenails and 0 blisters I’ve worn through one pair of sox which I was able to replace here in Saint Jean. My boots are in good condition, my shorts are getting a little loose but they should see me through. I’m nervous about the new adventure tomorrow but also looking forward to moving forward to the next stage.

The new Way Marking I’ll follow tomorrow