The Way – Page 7 – Tash on The Way

Big climb

One of the toughest that I’ll do. A 3km ascent that was so steep my watch didn’t even register the distance I was covering. Normally when people come up behind me on the path I hear the clack of their poles. Today I heard the breathing first.

When I pass others we normally exchange bonjours. About half way up the bonjours stopped and were replaced with nods of mutual acknowledgment . Eventually the nods stopped too and it was simply a moment of eye contact.

We all got to the top in the end. And when I did the scenery and landscape changed again. In the afternoon the bonjours were replaced with ‘we made it’. Everyone was so happy to have that hill behind them. I’ll rest well tonight.

Looking back on Conques about half way up

Goodbye to Aubrac

As I left St Chelay this morning I said goodbye to beautiful Aubrac region. As soon as I climbed out of the valley the terrain started to change. I was in the forest and today I would walk part rivers and streams. In Aubrac I saw many different shades of green. Now I see yellow in the countryside.

While I am descending off the Aubrac pass, the terrain is undulating and there are still many challenging climbs. The downhill stretches are exceptionally steep. I am glad I split this stage into two. I could enjoy the scenery and an easier pace.

The number of pilgrims is starting to thin out. Unfortunately there are stories of people ending there path due to blisters or other injuries. Others simply stopped due to short holidays. I’m now walking longer stretches where I don’t see other pilgrims. I like the time to think but I have to be careful to pay attention to the way markings when there’s no one else to follow.

I am now one week in to my Camino. I am tired but I am also adjusting to the weight of my pack and my feet are holding up. At the end of my stage tomorrow I will have walked more than 150km.

I rest tonight in Saint Comme, another pretty village. Looking forward to a shower and dinner as always.

Long day to Saint-Alban

Last night I was unable to secure accommodation at the recommended end for the 3rd stage. So I had to walk an extra 12km to get a bed. Long day.

Luckily the walk wasn’t nearly as strenuous as yesterday, but my body was really tired. It started to hurt. My backpack felt heavy. I adjusted it a hundred times. Somehow after my first rest stop and eating a delicious Pain au Raisin that I picked up before leaving Sauges I felt a lot better. My backpack was in a good spot and it felt better. I found my stride and I picked up my pace. The landscape also starting to change from big mountains to rolling green expanses. The scenery is a great distraction.

I made it to today’s recommended overnight stop just after lunch. Strangely I was glad to keep walking. Although the rain clouds did roll in. I could hear the thunder and at times even the rain. But somehow I managed to skirt just around the storm and I didn’t even get a drop.

The last kilometre coming into Saint-Alban was possibly the slowest kilometre I’ve ever walked. But I made it and my post walk beer and dinner were delicious.

The bad news… I have my first blisters on my little toes. The good news, because I walked an extra 12km today, tomorrow’s stage is only 16. I can sleep in.

I made it…

… through my first day at least. Once I started walking my nerves settled a lot. The scenery is spectacular. Green hills, purple and yellow wild flowers by the side of the road. It’s hard to know which way to look.

I started the day by attending the Pilgrim blessing at the Cathedral in Le Puy. They have a full mass daily, today’s was attended by around 150 people. After the mass there was a blessing for the Pilgrims. We had entered through a side door. At the end of the blessing the Priest gave the instruction for the portal to open. On demand, part of the floor was raised mechanically to reveal the main door to the Cathedral and the first steps of the Camino. We were wished a Bon Chemin and it was time to start.

My biggest fear embarking on this journey was that I would lose my way and get hopelessly lost in countryside France. I’m a lot less scared now. The Way Marking is exceptional. There are signs at most turns, shells marking much of the path and also red and white flags at regular intervals. There are even red and white X’s to show the incorrect path. It’s fantastic!

Many of the towns and villages we pass through don’t even have bakeries or cafes, but they usually have water fountains and toilets for pilgrims. Today I passed through one such town, Liac, where a lady had set up a kiosk selling sandwich’s, drinks and of course coffee to passing pilgrims. She also had a map of the world and she asked me to put in a pin for my home in Australia. There were only 2 pins for Australia. They were in Sydney and Perth, as my birthplace and my most recent home were taken I stuck one in Canberra. I hope my Canberran friends are reading. I enjoyed a small coffee and kept walking.

I am resting tonight in Montbonnet after a manageable first stage to my journey. I am tired but happy and content. Enjoying a local beer in the sunshine. Not a bad first day.

What am I doing here in Le Puy?

Before I left Australia on my Camino adventure I got asked the same two questions: ‘Why do you want to walk the Camino?’, and ‘Why are you staring in Le Puy?’

The answer to both questions is the same. A few years back, I read a novel in which two people walked seperate journeys along the Camino. After I read that book, I was pretty sure that the Camino was in my future. In the novel, the characters started walking from Cluny which is about 200km from Le Puy, the starting point I’ve chosen. I would have liked to walk from Cluny, but it’s hard to get to and the path isn’t well documented. Through my research I found that Le Puy is a popular starting point for Camino Pilgrims, the transport to get here is easy and there’s a pilgrim office to get you started. So the main reason for my starting point here in Le Puy is simplicity.

I left Australia 2 weeks ago and I’ve spent that time with my dear friends in Japan and London. I’m sad to have said goodbye to them and I’m sorry to be heading out on my own now. I miss all of them as well as my friends back home. I’m also feeling terrified and wondering why on earth I thought it was a good idea to leave my great job and my lovely home to try to walk across 2 countries. But I’m also excited to see what the next few months has in store.

If I’m successful in completing my Camino I’ll walk around 1500km to Santiago de Compostela. Sitting here in Le Puy that distance is unimaginable. But I’m aware that all I have to do is get up tomorrow and walk the first part of my journey. I would like to walk to Santiago, but I’m aware that not all journeys work out and I’m ok with changing my mind if mine doesn’t.

When Pilgrims meet along The Way they take a moment to wish each other well with a ‘Bon Chemin’ in France or a ‘Bon Camino’ in Spain. If you’re reading along with me please take a moment to send me your best wishes. Let’s see how I go.