Voie Nive Bidassoa – Tash on The Way

The end of the world and of the blog

I left before the sun was up again this morning and I was straight into the forest. There was a time when I would have been too scared to walk into the dark, not anymore. After a couple of kilometres I was out and onto the road and it started raining. Somehow it felt right that there was some rain on my last day of walking. Luckily I wasn’t on the road for long. I was back on the dirt tracks and very quickly I had my first views to the ocean. But there was still a long way to go.

I had to walk for 13km before I would reach the coast and another 15km to the town of Finistère. As I got closer to the ocean the sky started to clear, the sun came out. Those last 15km were some of the hardest I’ve done. The terrain was easy but I was tired and I felt every step. I was slow.

When I arrived at Finistère I was able to leave my backpack before starting the final hike to the End of the World. Heading up that last hill was joyous. No tears this time. I was happy to be walking along the cliffs and getting so close to the end. The final kilometres were slow, but then, finally, I arrived at that 0km sign.

I have walked across an entire country, traversed the Pyrenees and a good part of France. I cannot believe that I have walked so far and seen and experienced so much. I am proud of what I’ve done and extremely grateful to have had the freedom to go on an adventure.

I am lucky to have crossed paths with the wonderful people who made my adventure so special. I have met many people and made many friends. But Karina, Annie, Donald, Andreas, Antonio, Wouter and Katia shared their strength with me and made sure I’d keep going when I had nothing left. There were turns and trials along the way that led me to each of them. I would not change a single thing.

And now it’s done and so am I. I’ve put down my backpack and unlaced my boots for the final time. It’s time to stop following those yellow arrows, I’ll have to work out where I’m going without them.

The highs and lows of Santiago and continuing to the coast

Yesterday was a day of emotion. Before setting out for the final stage those of us who had walked the Primitivo met for coffee. The group would form and reform throughout the day but we rejoined for second breakfast after 5km, again at the top of the hill in Monte de Gozo where we got out first views of Santiago and of course in front of the cathedral where we finally set down our backpacks. It was a moment of pure joy and celebration.

I was so lucky to share the final kilometres of my journey with such a wonderful group of people. Katia, Antonio and Wouter have carried me through the last few days, it has been so much easier having them walk alongside me. I am lucky and grateful to have taken the turns in the road that led me to them. I wouldn’t change anything. There are so many others who walked with me through my long journey, too many to name here. They all know who they are and how special walking with them has been. I have also received many messages of congratulations from home, I’m still in the process of replying to many of these but I have read them all.

I have rested today, and after much consideration I have decided I will continue my walk tomorrow. There is 90km to the western coast, a place called Finistère which they call the end of the world. At this point another 90km doesn’t seem that far. It’s going to be hot this week so I’ll take it slowly and aim to cover the distance in 4 days. I’ll continue my blog while I continue my walk.

Finally an anticlimax today. I went to the pilgrim office to receive my Compostela the certificate all pilgrims who walk the minimum 100km receive for completing the Camino Santiago. There is also an option to request an additional certificate which states your starting location, the route you took and the distance walked. Unfortunately as I walked a path less traveled the pilgrim office was not prepared to recognise the full distance I walked and instead would only recognise the distance of the Camino Frances, about 100km less than I traveled. While the number is not important at this point, and of course neither is the paper it was still a little heartbreaking that the distance wouldn’t be recognised. I decided to leave the additional certificate. I know how far I’ve walked and the paths I’ve taken.

New friends

My first kilometre this morning was on a dirt path that was overgrown with moss, a soft squishy delight for my tired feet. After that I wove through sleepy towns for a few kilometres. Then I was onto a asphalt pathway beside a highway.

I soon came across another pilgrim, I could see his feet were also tired because like me he was trying to walk in the white line separating us from the highway. The line provided enough sponginess to make the effort of trying to walk on the line worthwhile. I eventually passed him when stopped to adjust his backpack and he passed me when I stopped to grab some snacks.

In Santillana I stopped for second breakfast and the sand pilgrim was there. He said hello and asked me to join him and said he recognised me from the way. I thought he meant when we passed today. But actually he had recognised me from places in France. He had also started in Le Puy and it turns out we started walking on the same day. He also navigated the Voie Nive Bidassoa, and like me he didn’t see another pilgrim the whole walk. We said goodbye after our coffee, I kept going and he went to the tourist office to find a stamp. I wonder if I’ll see him again.

Not long after I ran into Edward and his dog Bindy who I met in Guemes, we walked together for a few kilometres before he went to explore one of the beaches. Then Laslo joined me for a bit. He’s been walking with a friend and I’d seen them a few times on the trail. Unfortunately his friend hurt his knee and had left the way. We walked together all the way to Playa du Luana where I stay tonight. He kept walking. My feet don’t hurt nearly as much today.

Holà Spain

I was happy to leave the Pyrenees behind me today. A few hills to get over and then I had my last coffee break in France in a small town called Urrugne. I had a chat to some nice men about where I’d started my Chemin and how long I thought it would take to get to Santiago. It was nice to finish my time in France with such a nice interaction.

After my stop I had to hack my way through an overgrown path for about a kilometre. There were lots of vines and thistles. It was really tough going. Not long after I came across a man who was checking on his goats. He also wanted to chat about my Chemin.

Then I was in Hendaye the French town that borders Spain. I had a quick rest stop and then I was crossing the bridge that took me to Spain. What a novelty to cross into a new country on foot.. Im looking forward to meeting a new pilgrim community tonight and starting a new adventure tomorrow. Au revoir France.

Pyrenees Day 3

Today was the most physically demanding day of my trek through the Pyrenees. Big climbs followed by steep and slippery descents. But as I’ve learned on the Camino, those days are always the most rewarding. I was given wonderful views of the Pyrenees and also my first look to the see and into Spain.

I was also off the roads on pedestrian tracks. The walking is much more pleasant, it’s so much easier on the feet and I didn’t have to worry about dogs as much.

Tomorrow I will arrive in Spain and officially connect to the Camino del Norte. I should also meet a whole new pilgrim community. Tonight I’m in Ascain, a lovely town in Basque Country. I nice place to spend my last night in France.

Day 2 in the Pyrenees

Today started out with more beautiful scenery. I walked along the Nive river for 4kms. Most of the walking is on the road so it’s tough on the feet. I decided rather than pushing to get to Irun in 3 days I’d take my time through the Pyrenees and break the stages into 4.

About 7kms into my walk today I came across more dogs that aren’t behind a fence. This time there were two of them and as they came at me they cut off my path so I had to run back the way I came. I had to decide what to do. Give it another go or backtrack a to almost the start of my day and take another road. After about 10 minutes someone drive by. I decided to flag them down and ask them to take me part the dogs. The very nice man was happy yo help.

I’m resting tonight in Espelette, a small town in Basque Country that’s famous for its dried chillies. I tried a chocolate ice cream earlier that had little bits of through it. It was quite delicious. I do hope there’s no dogs tomorrow.

A few clouds left from last night’s rain

First day in the Pyrenees

I was very nervous leaving St Jean Pied de Port this morning. Over 1000 pilgrims leave St Jean each day bit most take the Camino Frances. I didn’t see any other pilgrims on my path today.

For the first few kilometres I followed the familiar red and white marks along the GR10, but after that the route split and the Voie Nive Bisassoa started. I’ve been following those red and white marks since I left Le Puy, I was sad to say goodbye. The GR10 would also take me to Irun but with exceptionally difficult climbs. Given the weight of my bag and traveling alone I decided to pass on that route. With one exception where I got a little lost the way marking held and I was able to navigate quite well.

I realised that I was exceptionally lucky to be taking this walk through the Pyrenees and that it was a privilege to do so on my own. I did meet some walkers after my lunch break who were going on another path and some people with horses not long after who were heading in the opposite direction.

I can see the hills and mountains all around and I regularly pass streams and rivers at the bottom of the valleys. Tte long days of corn seem like a long time ago.

My path diverging from the GR10 with new way markings