Walking in Spain – Page 4 – Tash on The Way

Adios Coast

Today I said goodbye to the coast for a few days. I’ve been enjoying the first views but I also love how the scenery continues to change on the Camino.

The uphill started as soon as I left town this morning. Some test today was the toughest of the Camino del Norte, I guess I’ll get to see. The climb was long and strenuous but I was constantly looking back at the views out to the coast. They continued to be spectacular. Despite the steep and strenuous climb it was lovely walking, everyone I spoke to shared my feeling that it was one of the nicest walks we’ve done so far.

A few people have asked me about the temperature and if I’m experiencing any of the heatwave that is engulfing so much of Spain. Luckily the high today was 28 degrees and the forecast for the rest of the week is for mid to low 20s. Apparently those further south walking the Camino Frances are experiencing the extreme weather. I am very happy that I sorted this route.

tonight I rest in Markina, a small Basque village. After dinner tonight I was walking back and a lady chased me asking if I was Australian. She was from Townsville. I always love the close affinity experienced with other Australians in Europe. I guess we all feel a long way from home.

Morning stroll

I left Zarautz via a long coastal walk. Once again I was walking alongside the locals out for their morning exercise. After passing through Getaria it was time to head uphill again before I went back down to Zumaia where I stopped for coffee at 10am. I sat amongst the locals, many of whom were already drinking their first glass of wine.

When I left one of the locals talked to me and gestured about the hills. Yes, I’ve climbed lots of hills I thought. I think what he meant though was you are about to climb up out of our town. And yes, it was quite a climb. But that was nothing compared to the steep descent heading into Deba this afternoon. It was steep and slippery and it went for about 3km. I was very happy to be finished walking for the day.

Walking along the cliffs

Leaving San Sebastián today it felt a lot like an early morning in manly. The swimmers surfers and runners were all up, there was even some yoga on the beach. I had a quick sharp climb after leaving the beach and then i was up above the cliffs. It levelled out and I stayed up high with sweeping views of the coast for about 10km before a steep descent.

After the descent there was a little stop for pilgrims. A lady and her family put out tea and coffee and cake (it was delicious) so pilgrims can have a rest. It was exceptionally kind. I then came to Orio, a little fishing port that had their food and wine fair. It felt like everyone in the town was out celebrating.

Tonight I’ve stopped in Zaurautz, another pretty beach town. I’m enjoying the Spanish tapas as a replacement to the rich French dinners. The wine has been good too.

Holà Spain

I was happy to leave the Pyrenees behind me today. A few hills to get over and then I had my last coffee break in France in a small town called Urrugne. I had a chat to some nice men about where I’d started my Chemin and how long I thought it would take to get to Santiago. It was nice to finish my time in France with such a nice interaction.

After my stop I had to hack my way through an overgrown path for about a kilometre. There were lots of vines and thistles. It was really tough going. Not long after I came across a man who was checking on his goats. He also wanted to chat about my Chemin.

Then I was in Hendaye the French town that borders Spain. I had a quick rest stop and then I was crossing the bridge that took me to Spain. What a novelty to cross into a new country on foot.. Im looking forward to meeting a new pilgrim community tonight and starting a new adventure tomorrow. Au revoir France.